Friday, February 09, 2007

Rainier Mountain Festival

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to announce the dates of this years Rainier Mountain Festival. We will be having the festival on September 15th and 16th 2007. For more informations visit their website at www.rainierfestival.com

Tuesday, February 06, 2007

Park Road Construction

I know a lot of people are concerned with the park not being open for the past 3 months as they deal with the flooding and road construction. For those who are climbing with a guide service, there is no need to worry. We will be shuttled up to Paradise no matter what. The park expects the road to re-open sometime in April/May. So everyone can enjoy the park. If you have any further questions feel free to contact Whittaker Mountaineering.

Friday, December 01, 2006

Upcoming Free Events

Whittaker Mountaineering will be providing free beginner Snowshoe and XC skiing Course on the Mount Tahoma Trails. For more information visit this weblink.
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/events.asp

Enjoy the snow and the mountain.

Thursday, November 16, 2006

What's a foot? Does it matter to you?

Whittaker Mountaineering found this article in the local Tacoma News Tribune. Interesting!
Taking the measure of a mountain

CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Eight hours after we stood on the roof of Washington last summer, our guides rewarded us with certificates that read “Mount Rainier, 14,410 feet.”
Aware many others believe the mountain is actually a foot taller, I raised my hand to get the scoop from Alex Van Steen, our lead guide from Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
“Hey, what happened to the extra foot?” I asked. “I’m pretty sure I felt it up there.”
“Nope,” Van Steen said with a smile. “The official height is 14,410 and 13 inches.”
Van Steen isn’t the only person who has his bases covered.
Ashford resident Steve Miller has vanity plates with Rainier’s elevation for his cars. The plates read “14410” on his Toyota pickup and “14411” on his Subaru Forester.
So what’s in a foot?
Most people – including career climbers and the U.S. Geological Survey – don’t really seem to care.
In fact, it doesn’t have official summit elevations for most mountains, including Rainier, said Steve Reiter of the USGS. The 14,410 USGS listing on maps is calculated from the agency’s highest Rainier benchmark, which is at 14,399 feet. A benchmark is a permanent point whose known elevation is part of a national network.
Mount Rainier National Park climbing ranger Mike Gauthier recently made the mistake of saying he didn’t care about the differing elevations during a slide-show presentation.
“Sure enough, some guy raised his hand,” Gauthier said. “It’s a big issue to some people. … It’s the state’s icon. It’s on the license plate.”
That’s precisely why people like Paul White think there should be an agreed-upon official elevation.
“If it was some other mountain, it wouldn’t be that important,” said White, a Lakewood resident. “But it’s our symbol. It’s going to be on the Washington quarter. They wouldn’t have remeasured it if it wasn’t important.”
In fact, it was the remeasurements in 1989 and 1999 for the state and national park’s respective centennials that tacked on the extra foot to the USGS 1956 measurement.
Using Global Positioning Satellites, the Land Surveyors Association of Washington calculated Rainier’s elevation at 14,411.1 in ’89 and 14,411.05 in ’99.
After the measurements, many changed their references for Rainier, but others stuck with the USGS calculation.
The result has been a sometimes humorous, often overlooked discrepancy that has become a curious Rainier footnote.
When two climbing guidebooks to Rainier were published in 1999, the first, written by Van Steen and Fred Beckey, listed the summit at 14,411 feet. A few months later, Gauthier’s version said 14,410.
Eric Simonson says his company, International Mountain Guides, uses 14,411 feet, even though his Web site says 14,410.
“I guess it depends on the day of the week and who you are talking to,” Simonson said.
Even the USGS has one reference to the higher elevation on its Web site, and Reiter says the GPS measurement is likely more accurate.
Wikipdia.com lists both elevations in the same article.
And, for good measure, the Smithsonian lists the elevation at 14,409 feet.
“Which elevation is most accurate?” said Dave Doyle of the National Geodetic Survey. “Well, that’s the stuff graduate degrees are made off.”
NOT OFFICIAL
Reiter says it’s a common misconception that there is a USGS benchmark at the summit of every mountain. In fact, the exact summit elevation isn’t vital to the USGS, he says.
The highest benchmark on Rainier is 14,399 feet, placed in the highest exposed rock outcropping.
“We place the benchmarks at known locations and elevations that are ideal for surveyors,” Reiter said, adding that precise summit elevations often aren’t necessary for making accurate maps.
From these benchmarks, the USGS calculates summit elevations.
Doyle says the USGS’ calculation of Rainier’s summit has a margin of error of plus or minus 5 feet.
“Most people are surprised to learn that quite a few famous peaks like Rainier don’t have official elevations,” Reiter said.
The USGS hasn’t measured any mountains in Washington since the arrival of GPS technology in the late 1970s, although they do use GPS.
Mount Rainier National Park uses 14,410 feet for the elevation because it uses USGS numbers, said park natural resources manager Roger Andrascik.
THE 1956 MEASUREMENT
Before Enumclaw’s Larry Signani led the GPS measurements of Rainier, he got hold of the notes from the USGS’ 1956 measurement.
According to the notes, the summit’s elevation was set based on the average of several triangulation measurements. And because of the margin of error, Signani says the elevation was rounded up as much as 2 feet, to 14,410.
“This is not saying anything negative about past measurements,” Signani said. “This is the best they had at the time.”
GPS: 14,411.05
Rainier was the first mountain measured using GPS technology in 1989. The Land Surveyors of Washington, led by Signani, hauled two suitcase-size GPS receivers to the summit.
For reference, 12 more receivers were placed at known elevations on and around Rainier.
“The more reference sites you use, the more accurate the reading,” Signani said.
In 1999, the surveyors used 16 reference receivers in measuring an elevation 1.5 centimeters shorter than their first measurement.
“Our measurements are accurate within a centimeter,” Signani said. “That’s pretty accurate.”
RIGHT ROUND, FOR THE RECORD
The Smithsonian Institution lists the summit of Rainier at 14,409 feet.
Lee Siebert, the Smithsonian’s volcano data specialist, says the difference is likely a rounding issue.
The Smithsonian uses USGS measurements; however, many USGS maps list Rainier at 4,392 meters. Sure enough, the conversion gives you an elevation of 14,409.4 feet. However, the USGS had already rounded down from about 4,392.2 meters – a difference of about 8 inches.
The North Dakota Space Grant Consortium uses Smithsonian data. However, after being contacted by The News Tribune, the consortium’s content editor – Oregon State University geosciences graduate student Chris Harpel – said the organization plans to switch to 14,410 feet to match the USGS.
Siebert did not indicate if the Smithsonian will change its elevation.
WHERE’S ZERO?
You aren’t going to get college credit for reading this section, but you probably should.
We’ll start with a quiz.
Mount Rainier is 14,411 (or 14,410) feet above what?
A. Mean sea level.
B. The geoid.
C. The reference ellipsoid.
If you said A or B you are correct. If you said C, you are off by 63.1 feet.
The USGS has always used height above sea level for its elevations, and as a result that has become the popular reference.
However, because the ocean’s surface rises and falls depending upon gravitational pull, sea level differs by location, Reiter said. And because most mountains don’t rise directly from the sea, scientists created a reference called the geoid, which extends mean sea level over the continents.
GPS technology measures height above another imagined Earth surface – the reference ellipsoid.
This is a smooth egg-shaped reference roughly Earth’s size and figure. In some places, the ellipsoid is below mean sea level, and in others, like the United States, it is above. GPS elevation is usually converted to feet above sea level.
At Mount Rainier, the ellipsoid is 63.1 feet above mean sea level, according to USGS records, so you would add that figure to the GPS measurement.
“Basically determining the elevation comes down to ‘Where is zero?’” Reiter said. “And can you even determine where zero is.”
Not confusing enough? For extra credit, check out the National Geodetic Survey’s explanation at www.ngs.noaa.gov/GEOID.
UPS AND DOWNS
The elevation of Mount Rainier’s summit changes all the time.
Because there is no exposed rock at Rainier’s highest point, the summit rises and falls depending on the temperature, snowfall and summit traffic.
“Depending on if it’s summer or winter, it fluctuates a few feet,” said Peter Whittaker, RMI’s CEO. “What I know for sure is it’s a darn long way up there.”
For those who make a living on the mountain, the summit seemed especially low this summer.
“I think it was about a foot lower than normal this year because it was so warm,” said Gauthier, Mount Rainier National Park’s lead climbing ranger. “I even saw a small crevasse near the summit for the first time.”
HOME MEASUREMENTS
So, maybe you’re thinking, “I have a GPS handset; why don’t I just hike up there and put an end to the debate?”
Well, it’s not that simple.
Standing on the summit last year, I got a reading that wasn’t even close. After adding my geoid height (the difference between mean sea level and the ellipsoid), my handset said 14,151 feet above sea level.
“That doesn’t surprise me,” Signani said. “Those little handheld receivers only have an accuracy within about 30 meters (981/2 feet) when you are measuring elevation. Plus, it has no reference points like we do when we use survey quality GPS, so that’s going to make it even less accurate.”
How about an altimeter?
“Altimeters are unreliable, too, because they are based on barometric pressure,” Signani said. “They are effected by temperature and humidity, so your reading will be different day to day.”
THE FUTURE
Soon surveyors in Washington will be able to measure Rainier – and everything else in the state – even more accurately.
The state is installing a web of continuously running GPS stations called the Washington State Reference Network.
“This will revolutionize the way we determine elevations,” Signani said. “It allows for centimeter positioning. This is the measurement future for Washington.”
TNT STYLE
It wouldn’t be fair to point out the inconsistencies of others without taking a shot at ourselves.
The News Tribune has bounced between both elevations since the 1999 GPS measurement. We used 14,411 feet in stories last summer, but we’ve used the shorter height in stories as recently as last month. We don’t have an official elevation in our local stylebook.
Hardly the consistency you’d expect from an organization that not only prides itself on accuracy but also has the mountain in its logo.
However, after researching this story, we’ve decided to settle on 14,411 feet as our official style.
“The first rule of journalism is accuracy. It’s also the second rule. And the third,” said News Tribune editing team leader Jim Kresse. “It just makes sense to go with the survey that uses the latest technologies and most recent measurements that give the most accurate reading.”
Craig Hill: 253-597-8497
craig.hill@thenewstribune.com
THE EVER-CHANGING ELEVATION
Year, Elevation, Credit, Method
1841 12,333 Lt. Charles Wilkes Triangulation
1879 14,444 James Smyth Lawson Barometer
1888 14,524 E.S. Ingraham Barometer
1896 14,519 USGS Barometer
1897 14,528 Edgar McClure Barometer
1902 14,363 USGS Barometer
1905 14,394 Alexander McAdie Barometer
1914 14,408 USGS Triangulation
1956 14,410 USGS Triangulation
1989 14,411.1 LSAW GPS
1999 14,411.05 LSAW GPS
SOURCES: National Park Service and Land Surveyors of Washington

Friday, November 10, 2006

Rainy Days at Mount Rainier

Heavy rain hit Mt Rainier earlier this week. Paradise recorded 18 inches of rain in a 36 hour period. Yes, Whittaker Mountaineering stayed dried, but wet indeed. Some of the roads throughout the park have been washed out. The park is currently closed to the public. We will continue to monitor the floods and updates in the future.

Friday, October 20, 2006

Upcoming Posts

Deep breathe,
The 2006 climbing season is officially over and it was a safe and succesfull season. As we sit here at the base of Mt. Rainier now waiting for snow to fall in tree tops above, we begin to plan for 2007. There will be a lot of exciting changes for the upcoming year and we look foward to sharing those with you on this blog on a more regular basis. In then next few weeks look foward to new information on Denali, our new rental gear will be selected and finalized by tomorrow, and we will be excited to share with you what new items will be in our rental fleet. New programs will be offered on Mount Rainier along with other mountain around the world. Our Holiday sale will start on November 15th. We are looking forward to a good winter here at Whittaker Mountaineering.

Wednesday, June 14, 2006

Climbing Routes on Mt. Rainier

The early season climbs on Mount Rainier saw many ascents via the Disappointment Cleaver. This route, the DC, is usually climbed later in the summer season. However, since there was little snow during the end of the winter season, the Ingraham Direct had been unnavigatable until recently. The past three weeks of low pressure systems in the Northwest have created conditions that have made navigation of the Direct route possible. Currently both the DC and the Direct route have been both ascended and descended.

Sunday, May 21, 2006

Mount Rainier Conditions

The climbing route on Mt. Rainier is typical for this time of the year. Although snow is covering most of the mountain, snowshoes have not been necessary for the approach to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet. RMI is currently using the Disappointment Cleaver route for their climbs. Summit Climbs have been successfully reaching the summit on May 12-13th, 13-14th, and 19-20th.

Saturday, May 20, 2006

Summit Congratulations!!!

RMI guide John Lucia, on Tuesday May 16th, summit Mount McKinley for the 10th time. Climbing through cloudy conditions, their team made the summit of North America’s highest point (20,320) in clear skies. Congratulations to John and his teammates. Check out John’s climbing resume at RMIGuides.com.

Brenda Walsh, RMI Senior Guide, early in the morning of May 20th, 2006 summited the World’s highest mountain, Mt. Everest (29,035). Brenda and teammates are currently descending from the mountain’s high camps. Check out RMI’s newly announced 2007 climb of Mt. Everest on their website.

Congratulations to both RMI guides who have truly accomplished great and difficult feats.

Friday, April 07, 2006

Fly by Mount Rainier

A friend of Whittaker Mountaineering passed along this 3 minute 19 second video clip to us and we appreciate the awesome footage. We beleive it was taken in July of 2005. Enjoy.
http://chris.pirillo.com/blog/_archives/2005/7/20/1053594.html

Thursday, February 16, 2006

Ed Viesturs Joins Whittaker Mountaineering Team

Come climb with Ed Viesturs


CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Last updated: January 19th, 2006 02:40 AM (PST)

If you want to climb with the hottest name in mountaineering, you’ll have to climb with Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
The Ashford-based company signed Ed Viesturs to an exclusivity agreement this week. Viesturs elevated his already lofty climbing celebrity last year when he became the first American to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter (26,246.7 feet) peaks.

The Bainbridge Island resident is writing a book and has been hired to give motivational speeches by organizations such as the Seattle Seahawks.

“My family’s relationship with Ed has been strong for many years, but in a more informal manner,” RMI co-owner Peter Whittaker said. “The purpose of this agreement is to solidify the relationship that we have and set the stage for the direction that RMI plans to take over the next decade.”

Viesturs has a long relationship with the Whittakers. RMI co-owner Lou Whittaker led Viesturs on his first 8,000-meter climb, a 1989 ascent of Nepal’s 28,169-foot Kanchenjunga. In 1990, Jim Whittaker, Lou Whittaker’s twin brother, led Viesturs’ first of six climbs to the summit of Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain. He has guided for RMI since 1982 and has summited Rainier 190 times.

In 2003. Viesturs and Peter Whittaker established Viesturs/Whittaker Climbs, a program that guides outdoor enthusiasts up Mount Rainier in a four-day program. Their 2006 climbs are already booked.

Now that RMI has added international trips to its traditional Rainier and Mount McKinley climbs, Peter Whittaker says Viesturs could lead climbs Antarctica or perhaps Nepal.

“He’s excited about Mount Vinson in Antarctica,” Whittaker said, “and for some twisted reasons he wants to go back to Everest.”

Whittaker says they have yet to schedule Viesturs’ 2006 climbs, but says those booking Rainier climbs could have Viesturs randomly assigned as their guide.

There are no extra charges for climbs with Viesturs. Three-day Rainier climbs are $795.

As part of the contract, Viesturs will offer product recommendation and dispatches from his travels.

Monday, January 09, 2006

Mt. Rainier Winter Expedition Seminar

During the past Winter Expedition Seminar weather was the biggest factor throughout the climb. Winter storms had been moving in and out of the area during Dec. 26th through Jan 4th. The team was able to train in-depth on avalanche awareness and other skills needed to climb on Mt. Rainier and mountains such as Mt. McKinley (Denali).
Due to high avalanche conditions the team was only able to reach an altitude of 7,000 feet. Below is a picture from one of their camps during a snow storm.

Monday, December 05, 2005

Snowy News

The Snow Gods have been kind so far to the Pacific Northwest. There is currently a 75 inch base at Paradise. The snow area is expected to open up this weekend. Mount Tahoma Trails are in great condition for those who want to ski outside of the park. Our first winter seminar will start December 27th, and we will post conditions at Muir and the upper mountain soon after that. The Park service is requiring all vehicles to carry tire chains. Whittaker Mountaineering rents tire chains and snowshoes, tubes, and XC skis

Wednesday, November 16, 2005

Winter Play areas

It is nice to see snow on the local foothills on this cold and sunny day. We want to update you on conditions in and outside the park. There is a 46 inch base at Paradise right now, and conditions are good for snowshoeing and XC skiing. The sledding area at Paradise is schedule to open on December 22 if there is 6 feet of snow at Paradise. Longmire does not have much snow at this time but things can change in a hurry. If anyone wants update weather and road conditions for inside the park feel free to call us at whittaker mountaineering 800-238-5756.
The Mount Tahoma Trail Association has snow as well. Currently you have to walk about a mile from the parking area on the South side to get to snow, but there is a descent amount on the high trails. The North Side (copper Creek) is schedule to open this coming weekend. To park at both locations you will need a Snow Park Permit which you can purchase at Whittaker Mountaineering. Those who would like to recieve MTTA conditions or hut availability give us a call. We also rent snowshoes, XC skies, Ski Tubes and Tire Chains. We will update the conditions when more snow arrives

Monday, October 10, 2005

What's in a name?

What's in a name?
For the Whittaker family, two generations of mountaineering excellence. That's why Summit Haus is being reborn as Whittaker Mountaineering. The Store's original name hails from RMI owner Peter Whittaker;s former "Summits Adventure Travel," which Peter ran with his wife, Erika, for 15 years. The new name better reflects a family tradition of climbing achievement established by Peter, his father, Lou, co-founder of RMI, and his famed uncle, Jim, the first American to climb Mount Everest. Look for great deals on the same quality gear, tested by professionals, under the new Whittaker Mountaineering banner, and on our renamed website www.whittakermountaineering.com

Monday, October 03, 2005

Winter is around the corner

Those who love the Snow and live in the Pacific Northwest recall how bad it was last winter in regards to snowfall. The forecast for this winter looks promising. Whittaker Mountaineering will keep you updated on the snow levels on Mt Rainier as the snow begins to fall in the upcoming weeks.

Wednesday, July 27, 2005

Rainier Wildflowers Nearing End of the Season

The wildflowers on Mt. Rainier during 2005 have bloomed later in the season compared to normal. This late bloom however has not in any way degraded the beauty of the flowers. The weather and bright beautiful flowers have made hiking and photography a pleasure in the park these past days. The wildflower season is nearing its end now. Every effort should me made to make a trip out to Mt. Rainier and the Ashford Valley to view these magnificent flowers.

Below are images of flowers by the Van Trump Park area. For more information on how to get there stop in the Summit Haus for specific directions.



Mt. St. Helens - 1960 and 2005

Featured below are images taken from Bear Pass of Mt. St. Helens in 1960 and 2005. The 45-year span in time shows the dramatic changes after the May 18th eruption in 1980. As seen in the photos below, the scared landscape is slowly regenerating itself as life returns to the area around the blast.










These photos are courtesy of friends of the Summit Haus.

Monday, July 11, 2005

Denali Trip Reports & Rainier Weather

Whittaker Mountaineering employee Joe Blattner has recently posted his May 2005 Denali trip report. This report includes the daily activities of their expedition, as well as a couple pictures taken on the mountain. Their climb successfully summitted on May 22nd and flew off the mountain a couple days later. Click Here to read Joe’s daily dispatches.

These past days have brought in harsh weather on both the upper and lower slopes of Mt. Rainier. The fronts that had moved in created high winds, cold temperatures, and new snow. Forecasts for upcoming weather conditions show much better weather moving in with clearer skies. The freezing level, which as stayed particularly low this season, is predicted to rise to around 14,000 feet by this weekend. That indicates weather on the mountain may have ideal climbing condition in the very near future.

Wednesday, June 29, 2005

Current Mount Rainier Weather & Pictures

The current weather on Mt. Rainier has allowed for many successful summits this past month. Although 'the mountain' received a minimal amount of snow during the winter months, spring snowfalls and cold upper mountain temperatures have created great climbing conditions.
Below are photos taken on June 29th from the MTTA (Mount Tahoma Trails Association) High Hut. High Hut is located at 4,760 feet and these images show Mt. Rainier as well as a zoomed-in photo of the upper slopes of the Muir Snowfield.