Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Mount Rainier Weather Update



Yes, the strange wet July week of weather looks like it is over. From July 16-July 22, Mt Rainier and the whole state of Washington experienced some wet times. Summer seems to be back which is a good thing. Groups are summitting again, and the route looks to be okay. We will have a detailed route update soon.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Weatherwise Article about Whittaker Mountaineering Adviser

On the Job:Alex Van SteenAlex
Van Steen is a guide for Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., a mountaineering company based in Mount Rainier National Park, WA. Van Steen, who began climbing as a teenager, has more than 50 first ascents under his belt, and he’s made two attempts on Everest; the second time he reached 28,000 feet before turning back. Van Steen has summitted Mount Rainier more than 200 times, leading climbers past treacherous icefalls and crevasses on the mountain’s steep slopes.
What are the worst weather conditions that you’ve ever experienced on a mountain?

I think probably the worst weather I’ve experienced was when I was high up on a mountain trying to sleep in a tent. The tent was strapped down fairly well, but really strong winds made me concerned that the tent was going to tear apart. And so I put on—and this is a common strategy—all my clothing and my boots. Although I caught maybe a little bit of rest, I certainly didn’t sleep. But if the tent disintegrated around me, then at least I would have had my clothing on, like my suit, and my boots.

Is it possible for the tent to blow off a mountain with you in it?

You could be in it. We tie it down with three-millimeter cord, and then on some of these peaks where we’re very exposed, we have a net made of one-inch webbing, and we actually anchor the tent down underneath that net. It would really take a lot to tear a tent off the mountain, but on some places, like Mount McKinley and Mount Everest, they do get destroyed.

Do you find the extreme weather to be part of the appeal?

I enjoy the extreme weather very much. There’s a limit, obviously, if you’re in over your head or it’s ridiculously uncomfortable. That’s no fun for anybody, so you say, “let’s turn around.” But I enjoy being able to deal with that kind of weather and navigate in it and survive in it and play in it. I have a metabolism where I get warm very easily. I don’t get cold very easily, so I do really well in cold temperatures.
—MEGHAN JOYCE is the assistant editor for Weatherwise.

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Denali Update


Denali has seen some interesting weather this season. Here is an update


West Buttress
May 2: Summited May 21

May 9: Summited May 23

May 16: Reached 19,600'

May 23: Summited June 12

May 30: Summited June 14

June 13: Summited June 29

June 20: Reached 17,200' June 27:

West RibJune 7: Reached 19,800'

If you are looking for to read dispatches from 2007 click here http://www.rmiguides.com/mckinley/mckinley_dispatches.html


Wanting to read a expedition journal by Seth Waterfall.



Blinded in Iraq, he climbs Rainier.

TheNewsTribune.comSection: Local

Blinded in Iraq, he beats Rainier MELANTHIA MITCHELL; The Associated Press

Scott Smiley lives life a little differently since being blinded by shrapnel that ripped through his eyes in a suicide bombing in Iraq, but it’s a challenge he has embraced.
The 27-year-old Army captain reached the summit of Mount Rainier on Tuesday. And he’ll be honored Thursday as the Army Times’ Soldier of the Year.
Smiley, who lost his sight in a 2005 bombing in Mosul, reached the top of the 14,411-foot peak early in the day along with several other climbers, including a half dozen guides from Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
“The team did summit at 8 a.m. on the north side of the mountain,” said Peter Whittaker, an RMI co-owner who talked to the group by radio. He said the climbing party immediately began descending so that Smiley could catch a flight to Washington, D.C., for the Soldier of the Year ceremony. The award is presented by Army Times Publishing Co.
Mount Rainier is considered a technical, difficult climb, and to attempt it climbers must have a certain level of skill or be guided. Of 8,972 attempts made in 2005, the most recent data available, 4,604 reached the summit.
Smiley’s group was led by guides Art Rausch and Andy Kittleson. It set out Sunday, overnighting at about 7,500 feet, below Camp Muir – the most popular route to the top. The next day they stopped at Camp Muir before pushing toward the summit early Tuesday.
The group included retired 1st Lt. Ed Salau of New Bern, N.C., who lost a leg in a 2004 grenade attack in Iraq. Whittaker said Salau had stayed at Camp Muir while the party climbed the peak.
The climb was sponsored by Camp Patriot, a company in Libby, Mont., that provides outdoor recreational experiences for disabled veterans.
Weather, avalanche danger and overall physical health are huge challenges for anybody who climbs Mount Rainier.
For Smiley, the risks are even greater, said Whittaker, noting that throughout the climb, guides had to remain close, with one person in front and behind the soldier.
Whittaker spent about 10 minutes with Smiley’s group Sunday. “I was very impressed. They were moving very well,” he said.
The soldier from Pasco has wanted to climb Rainier since visiting Fort Lewis several years ago as a West Point cadet. He currently lives in Durham, N.C., with wife, Tiffany, and their 8-week-old son and is assigned to headquarters of the Army Accessions Command at Fort Monroe, Va.
“He loves it,” Tiffany Smiley said during an earlier telephone interview with The Associated Press. “It’s just who he is.”
She added that since being blinded, her husband has surfed off the coast of Hawaii, gone skydiving and skied Vail. He also climbed Mount Democrat, a 14,148-foot peak in Colorado.
Smiley was injured in Iraq in April 2005 while serving with the 1st Brigade, 25th Infantry Division – a Stryker combat team formerly based at Fort Lewis.
His unit came upon a suspicious man sitting in a vehicle. When Smiley fired off a couple warning shots, the man raised his hands and the car exploded.
“Everything went black,” said Tiffany Smiley, recalling the attack as her husband had described it.
Shrapnel embedded in his eyes and brain, leaving him temporarily paralyzed and permanently blind. Doctors had to remove one eye. He was eventually fitted with a prosthetic blue eye.
“It was hard,” she said. “It took him awhile to realize what had happened.”
But after receiving a Purple Heart just weeks after his injury, Smiley realized he could still do things he’d done before, including stay in the Army. He learned to walk with a cane, read Braille and traveled the country to speak to other soldiers.
“He is still the same person, he just does things in a different way now,” his wife said.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Mount Rainier Route Conditions



Rainier Update 07/09/2007
Conditions on Mount Rainier are rapidly changing from spring to summer. Most of the snow is melting at Paradise (5,400’) and the meadows are beginning to emerge. The established trail up to Pebble Creek (7,200’) is turning from snow to dirt, and it will not be long before the permanent snowline is at Pebble Creek.
The Disappointment Cleaver route is in great shape for this time of year. A thick winter snow pack is covering most of the rock and scree on the Cleaver from 11,000’ to 12,300’. The snow not only reduces the amount of rock fall on the cleaver, but also makes ascending and descending much easier. Several hundred feet above the top of the cleaver the route crosses a small break up where the Emmons glacier pulls away from the rock. This is the start of a long (mostly level) traverse to the Emmons shoulder where the route then ascends in a series of switchbacks up to around 13,000’. From here the trail heads back to the south in an ascending long traverse crossing several crevasses at the top of the Ingraham glacier, and on up to Columbia Crest. Temperatures are forecasted to break records in the Seattle area this week pushing up into the mid 90’s. The heat will be felt on Rainier as freezing levels climb up to near 15,000’

Mountain Hardwears Mission Project

Announcing the Mission Project!

Go Big and Go Blog!
Mountain Hardwear's Mission Project: test both yourself and our gear, tell fellow adventurers about it, and enter to win great prizes, including the gear hog's Holy Grail, a guided trip up Mt. Rainier and $2,000 shopping spree.
Redpoint that pesky climb. Bag Colorado's 14ers in a single summer. Knock out 30,000 vert in 30 days at your climbing gym (hopefully not all to the same song). Nail your first triathlon. Escape on a point-to-point backpack trip. Clean Moab's Slickrock Trail. Whatever you do, take your Mountain Hardwear gear, put it through its paces, and tell our customers how it performed. That's how we got our start, and we want you to do the same.
Why on the blog? So you can share our passion for the outdoors -- and Mountain Hardwear's innovation, reliability, and quality -- with others, tell your stories, post photos and more. Blog visitors will be able to see first hand how our tents, sleeping bags, backpacks and other gear helped you reach your goal.
Best yet, your accomplishment isn't your only reward. We'll be awarding monthly Mountain Hardwear prizes for the top submissions, with those winners going into a pool for three first-place prizes (awarded in May, September and December) and one Grand Prize.
Prizes: Monthly: A piece of Mountain Hardwear gear (could be a jacket, pack, sleeping bag or tent) and a limited edition sweatshirt First-place: $1,000 Mountain Hardwear shopping spree at an authorized Mountain Hardwear outdoor retailer Grand Prize: Guided mountaineering trip up Mt. Rainier, plus $2,000 Mountain Hardwear shopping spree at RMI (complete with personal shopper guidance provided by Peter Whittaker). Winner announced during first week of January 2008
How It Works:
Simply set a goal and achieve it, and then post your entry on our blog (blog.mountainhardwear.com), explaining your accomplishment and role your Mountain Hardwear gear played (photos of gear in use strongly encouraged)
Winners will be based on the level of accomplishment and creativity of endeavor, judged by our esteemed Mountain Hardwear panel. Please use your best judgment in executing your mission, and always put safety first.
Important: No purchase necessary. Open to legal residents of the U.S. and Canada (excluding Quebec) who are 18 or older. Contest runs from February 1, 2007 to December 31, 2007. For instructions and complete Official Rules, visit blog.mountainhardwear.com. Contest is sponsored by Mountain Hardwear, Inc. and is void in Quebec and where prohibited.

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

Updated Route Conditions for Mt Rainier

Rainier Update 07/03/2007
Conditions on Mount Rainier are rapidly changing from spring to summer. Most of the snow is melting at Paradise (5,400’) and the meadows are beginning to emerge. The established trail up to Pebble Creek (7,200’) is turning from snow to dirt, and it will not be long before the permanent snowline is at Pebble Creek.
Temperatures have been below average the last several weeks, with the snow level for the most part staying below 9,000’. This cooler trend will help keep the upper mountain frozen and in good shape as the summer climbing season progresses. Freezing levels are forecasted to rise to above 13,000 next week.
Snow conditions on the Muir snowfield are still good for boarding and skiing. In fact, several inches of fresh snow fell last night providing “fresh pow pow” for summer sliding. The ridge at Camp Muir (10,000’) is also emerging as the winter snow pack begins to recede. From Muir to the Ingraham Flats (11,000’), several small crevasses are beginning to open up on the Cowlitz Glacier. Cathedral gap is all rock and scree. The approach onto Disappointment Cleaver is in good shape, and the traverse to the Nose and climb up the Spine is all snow. From the top of the Cleaver, the route traverses north to the Emmons Shoulder and a series of switchbacks ascends the Emmons to approximately 13,000’. The trail then heads back on a long ascending traverse across the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.

Monday, July 02, 2007

Rainier Route Conditions

Rainier Update 06/29/2007
Conditions on Mount Rainier are rapidly changing from spring to summer. Most of the snow is melting at Paradise (5,400’) and the meadows are beginning to emerge. The established trail up to Pebble Creek (7,200’) is turning from snow to dirt, and it will not be long before the permanent snowline is at Pebble Creek.
Temperatures have been below average the last several weeks, with the snow level for the most part staying below 9,000’. This cooler trend will help keep the upper mountain frozen and in good shape as the summer climbing season progresses. Freezing levels are forecasted to rise to above 13,000 next week.
Snow conditions on the Muir snowfield are still good for boarding and skiing. In fact, several inches of fresh snow fell last night providing “fresh pow pow” for summer sliding. The ridge at Camp Muir (10,000’) is also emerging as the winter snow pack begins to recede. From Muir to the Ingraham Flats (11,000’), several small crevasses are beginning to open up on the Cowlitz Glacier. Cathedral gap is all rock and scree. The approach onto Disappointment Cleaver is in good shape, and the traverse to the Nose and climb up the Spine is all snow. From the top of the Cleaver, the route traverses north to the Emmons Shoulder and a series of switchbacks ascends the Emmons to approximately 13,000’. The trail then heads back on a long ascending traverse across the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.