Mount Rainier Route Weather Update Whittaker Mountaineering

Rainier Update 08/22/2007
A persistent marine cloud layer and cooler temperatures have been the trend on Mount Rainier this summer. Though we have not experienced a significant snowfall (it can snow 3 to 4 feet on the upper mountain), we did pick up 5 to 6 inches of snow above 11,000’ several days ago. The winter snow pack on the Muir snowfield is rapidly melting and patches of firm snow and ice are emerging, particularly around Moon Rocks at 9,000’. While the ice is a bit challenging, our guided teams are navigating around these sections and are able to do so without crampons.
From Camp Muir at 10,000’, the route traverses the Cowlitz Glacier. Several small crevasses are crossed as the trail ascends Cathedral Gap and onto the Ingraham Flats at 11,000’. From here the route drops down under Disappointment Cleaver, descending about 400 vertical feet. Once under the Cleaver, a series of switchbacks ascend the Emmons Glacier, up to about 11,500’, and take climbers to a new section of the route that was put in last week. The new trail works it way north on an ascending traverse which gains the Emmons Shoulder at around 11,800’. After several more switchbacks this new trail connects with the old route at around 12,400’. Here, the trail switchbacks up the shoulder and begins to traverse south at approximately 13,000’. These switchbacks are well established as they cross the upper Ingraham glacier and finish at Columbia Crest.
All in all, the route offers very typical late season climbing, and we expect similar conditions through the end of the climbing season.

Rainier Mountain Festival

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

Contact:
Jeremy Foust
Whittaker Mountaineering
PO BOX W
Ashford, Wash 98304
jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com
http://www.rainierfestival.com
PH (360) 569-2142
FAX (360) 569-2982

Sixth Annual Rainier Mountain Festival Features Top Climbers

Ashford, Wash., Wednesday, August 8, 2007

What: 2007 Rainier Mountain Festival
When: September 15 and 16, 2007
Where: Rainier Basecamp, 30027 SR 706 E, Ashford, Wash.
How Much: Admission is Free

For more info: www.rainierfestival.com

The Sixth Annual Rainier Mountain Festival will again feature a great gathering of American Mountaineers on September 15 and 16 in Ashford, Wash. Noted climbers will include Jim Whittaker (first American to summit Everest), Ed Viesturs (first American to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks without oxygen), Lou Whittaker (American climbing legend and founder of Rainier Mountaineering Inc), and over 15 other climbers who have stood on top of Everest. The climbers will be hosting films and slide shows, signing books, and conducting equipment demonstrations.
Other activities at the festival will include a ‘Post-Monsoon’ equipment and clothing clearance sale, a 5-mile run, Alpine Games, climbing wall for all ages, BBQ and local brews, live entertainment, raffles, mountaineering travel displays, kids’ games. A raffle will be done throughout the event and proceeds will go towards trail restoration in Mount Rainier National Park. Admission is free for all events except for the 5-mile run.
The festival will take place at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, Wash., just outside of Mount Rainier National Park.
Alpine Game events will include a head to head speed climbing event, timed tent erecting, sled pulls, and speed rope coiling, and winners will receive cash prizes.

Contact:
Jeremy Foust, Jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com
800-238-5756

Mount Rainier route conditions

Rainier Update 08/07/2007
August has arrived and conditions on Mount Rainier are typical for this time of year. The trails from Paradise (5,400') to Pebble Creek (7,200') are all melted out. From Pebble Creek to Camp Muir the snowfields are firm and beginning to get sun cupped making for ideal hiking conditions. Rock features such as The Bear ((8,200'), Top of Moon Rocks (9,200'), and Anvil Rock (9,500') on the snowfield are emerging as the winter snow pack has melted.
From Camp Muir the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier with just several small crevasse to be stepped over. Cathedral Gap (10,500') is all rock and scree with a nice trail leading up to the Ingraham Glacier (10, 800'). Several large crevasses on top of Disappointment Cleaver have made access off of the Cleaver onto the Emmons Glacier challenging and due to this the route has been moved. The trail accesses the Emmons underneath the Cleaver and then ascends up the Emmons in a series of switchbacks hitting the Emmons shoulder at about 12,300'. From the shoulder, the route works its way up to 13,000' and then traverses south back to the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.

Koflach Degre and Expe Boots Whittaker Mountaineering

Have you heard? Koflach is no longer going to be making plastic mountaineering boots. Whittaker Mountaineering first heard this in the spring and have tried to get our hands on as many as possible. We have used Koflach Degre boots in our rental fleet for years, and have had good luck with the Expe on Denali. We are now in the process of looking at what to do next. There are still several expeditions that using a plastic mountaineering boot makes sense, and in a rental situation it seems to always make the most sense. (because you don't have to break in double plastic boots) We have put Scarpa and Lowa boots in our rental fleet to see if they hold up well, and gather climbers feedback to see what direction to go in for 2008. We are meeting with Plastic Boot manufactures in a few weeks to see what will best work for those who are interested in purchasing plastic boots in the future. In the mean time we do have several sizes of the boots available so don't miss your chance. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/categories.asp?d=Footwear&cat=3&root=undefined&rootid=undefined