Fall on Rainier

BEAR DAY at PARADISE!

by sally Nov.10.2008 12:10:33 am

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Taken on October 29th from Chinook Pass………


Here are some of my favorite fall photos from previous years.


Mouse over photos for information………….

Before you go any further…. let me remind you of the following information………



This photo from a previous year is where my bear adventure took place at Paradise. This is the lower paved trail into Edith Creek Basin area where there is a place to view Mrytle Falls.

Fall has come to the mountain! It’s beautiful presently! The mornings are cool, crisp and dewy! The daylight time is shorter with some downright cold evening weather. The “Caution - Roads are Icy” sign sits prominently at the national park entrance and also at Longmire to note that winter is just around the corner.

The weather has been unpredictable which is not uncommon during the month of October. There have been glorious sunny October days but unlike the month of September the sunny days stay only a day or two at a time. It has rained in the city and snowed at the mountain and yet the next day may bring warmth from the sun to melt ice or snow or dry the dew on the leaves.

The autumn colors are appearing everywhere around Mt. Rainier. The vine maples always make the biggest color statement but they were still not at their peak on Tuesday, October 14th when I visited. Paradise showed a fair amount of red low lying bushes and lots of foliage with yellow hues. But the greenish yellow told the tale that with more cold frosty mornings shades of orange and deep reds would soon appear on the slopes of the Paradise hills.



This year has been difficult for the mountain black bears! The huckleberries and blueberries didn’t ripen until mid September! The bears should have been eating berries starting in August to fatten themselves for their long winter hibernation. On this Tuesday in October, I didn’t see blueberries or huckleberries on the slopes above the Paradise Inn but instead some red berries I think are called elderberries. However, on an earlier September 26th visit to Paradise while hiking up the Deadhorse Creek Trail, I had feasted on both blueberries and huckleberries that were ripe and ready. Perhaps the cold chill made the berries drop off the bushes leaving just the red berries now for the bears. Presently, the bears are in an altered state of urgency honed into eating everything they can before their long winter nap. Thus stories of daily bear sightings are flooding in from everyone visiting Paradise as the bears eat the red elderberries voraciously. The bear reports are mostly noting the bears around Paradise are young yearling bears. A yearling bear is one that has been abandoned by the mother bear to begin their solitary bear life. The young bears seem not to be afraid of people unlike the older wiser bears. These young bears are “hanging out” around the paved lower trails and around the closed Paradise Inn populated by people most of the time. Therefore a trip to Paradise right now not only excites the senses for the beauty of the fall colors but also excites the sense of adventure of seeing a bear in the wild.

My short trip to Paradise on Tuesday, October 14th also became an adventure all about bears! The mountain was hidden behind a thin veil of clouds but the crisp fall air with its special scent from the dying foliage making autumn colors was plenty to make this trip well worth the drive. But the bear experience that unfolded at the beginning of the trail behind the Paradise Inn pushed the limits of excitement beyond my wildest dreams.

I was walking up the paved trail section behind the Paradise Inn toward Myrtle Falls and Edith Creek. Suddenly, around a curve in the paved path a bear came walking toward me.
I stood frozen with fear not knowing what to do. Scream? Run backward? Yikes, what was the right thing to do?? I didn’t have time to think because the bear kept walking toward me so I stopped moved to the side of the paved path and placed my tripod with camera attached down on the pavement and began snapping photos. What else could I do?

The bear kept walking toward me and when the bear was right beside me it stepped down off the pavement and veered down a bit away from me. But as soon as the bear was past me it walked back up onto the edge of the paved path with an obvious destination in mind. Unbelievable! I think my heart stopped for awhile as the bear past by me. I couldn’t remember the actual passing because of my extreme fright! After the bear walked past I realized its focus was on getting to a good elderberry patch. This young bear was totally unfazed by humans. I had read about this bear on Mike Gauthier’s Climbing Blog that is accessible on the right side of this blog page. This particular bear was brown with golden blonde hair sticking up in spiky points on its back neck that was an unusual sight! After seeing the photos on this blog, check out the latest posting on Mike’s blog to see another bear photo taken at Paradise.

My bear story should end here but it doesn’t! As I began leaving the parking area at Paradise while I was looking toward the Tatoosh Range, a small bear that was black darted out from behind the Paradise Inn in front of my car running to the opposite side of the road… I suspect to get more elderberries. I had to slam on my brakes since I was momentarily looking away from the Paradise Inn side of the road in order to not hit the bear with my car. Holy Cow! Or should I say……Holy Bear? What a bear day at Paradise!

I will let my series of BEAR PHOTOS show my story!
ENJOY!
Sally Johnson
Sally’s Photos
www.mtrainierphotos.com

Winter is just around the corner!

With winter fast approaching, the crew here at Whittaker Mountaineering is getting geared up for ski and snowshoe season! What does that mean? Well, here in the foothills of Mount Rainier winter can arrive at any point now, and that means SNOW! Once that snow starts falling, we'll be out enjoying the wonderful winter recreation opportunities the local area provides. Did you know that North America's Largest No Fee Hut to Hut Ski Trail System is right in our backyard? That's right, the Mount Tahoma Ski Trail System has approximately 50 miles of trails perfect for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing which can be accessed from roads just outside of Ashford, Washington.


In addition to these trails, there are 3 Backcountry Huts that can be reserved for overnight stays. The first opportunity to reserve a hut for the upcoming season will be on November 15th at the 2008 MTTA Gala Fundraiser - don't miss it!


In addition to the MTTA trails, there are endless winter opportunities within Mount Rainier National Park ranging from hiking and snowshoeing to backcountry skiing and climbing. Access to the park via the Nisqually Entrance is open throughout the winter months and the road all the way to Paradise is plowed daily! For additional information, visit the Mount Rainier National Park Winter Recreation page.

Want to get out and enjoy these opportunities but don't have the equipment to do so? We rent snowshoes, cross-country skis, snowboards, and randonee skis, as well as winter essentials like tire chains, avalanche beacons, and winter clothing. Check out our rentals page for rates and more information!

Ready for another great winter but need to upgrade that old shell jacket? Want to stay warm on that winter camping trip but don't have the right insulated clothing? Or are you new to winter recreation and just looking for a pair of winter hiking pants? Whatever it is, here's a few recommendations for some great winter gear:

The Mountain Hardwear Hooded Compressor Jacket and Compressor Pant are lightweight and feature highly compressible synthetic insulation, making them ideal in conditions where moisture is a concern. They will easily disappear in your pack yet will provide incredible warmth, especially when layered under a waterproof shell. All of us here at the store refuse to venture out in the winter without at least one of these pieces, and the RMI Guides wear them all summer long while guiding on Mount Rainier.



In recent years, softshell pants have become the standard for winter hiking. There are a lot of different brands and models out there to choose from, but our favorites are the Mountain Hardwear Men's Makalu Pant and Women's Makalu Pant. These pants are constructed of a durable stretch nylon with a tightly woven face that keeps the wind out and easily sheds snow and light drizzles. Better still, the light fleece lining provides warmth for cold days yet still breathes well when the mercury rises.



Waiting for that rain to turn into snow? Stay dry with a waterproof shell like the Mountain Hardwear Pinnacle Jacket. It features welded construction to reduce weight and bulk, eliminating the need to tape seams. The hood is perfect for use with or without a helmet, and the superlight pit zips allow for easy temperature regulation throughout the day. A great jacket at a great price!



Be sure to visit us at Whittaker Mountaineering for updates on MTTA trail conditions, snow levels, and great clothing and equipment for your next adventure!

Information from www.mtrainierphotos.com

Written on September 15th but photos were taken on 9-9-2008…………

Mouse over photos for information………..


Don’t forget to click on “Archives” on the left side of this posting for OTHER JOURNALS with photos! There are postings dating all the way back to last summer, fall and winter seasons with tons of photos. If you are visiting Mt. Rainier check out the journals from last year for information on what there is to see.

I have posted day hiking suggestions for September so check out my suggestions on the blog posting titled “8-18-2008 Day Hiking Suggestions”.

September is the start of the fall season in the Pacific Northwest with chilly mornings and moist wet dew on everything making you think it rained during the night. This September of 2008 the weather has been spectacular with bright sunny days warming up to the high 70’s or 80’s after evening temperatures plunging down to 40 degrees. Mount Rainier has been showing off to all the city folks in the Seattle – Tacoma area with awesome morning sunrises and nice pink sunsets with the moon close by increasing to full size.

Inside Mount Rainer National Park this September is particularly special! Due to the late snowfall in June and the long snow melting season that lasted into the middle of August, the summer flowers are blooming now in September! I have often seen what I call the “Clash of Seasons” where winter snow lays on top of autumn red, orange and yellow foliage, but never before have I seen big patches of lush summer flowers druring the fall season. The mountain meadow flowers normally peak at the end of July and beginning of August and are gone by the third week. Therefore, I am calling this September the “historical” autumn season at Mount Rainier National Park.

In between Reflection Lake and Paradise there are many mountain blueberries and huckleberries bushes that fatten the bears as they get ready for their winter hibernation. This September the berries are still a transparent green and will obviously not ripen after long lasting snow lingered until late summer. Without the berries the bears have moved higher toward Paradise this year and have been frequently seen around the Paradise trails. Next April in 2009 as the berry starved bears wake up from their long naps, I suspect, they will be ravenously hungry and unfortunately will quickly find food sources close to people.

With the hint of fall coming to the mountain from the yellow colors appearing on slopes near Paradise and some red vine maples along the Nisqually Road on September 9th, vibrant fall colors will soon decorate the park. Will the warm September weather keep the summer flowers blooming a while longer as the frosty mornings of autumn transform the bushes to fall colors of yellow, orange and red? Check back to see what happens in Mount Rainier National Park!



Written on September 15th after participating in Whittaker’s Rainier Mountain Festival in Ashford on the weekend……….
While at the festival, reports from people that had been hiking said the summer flowers were still blooming! Today, on Monday the 15th of September, the 80 degree weather continues into its second week! This is a glorious month so far!

Sally Johnson
www.mtrainierphotos.com

Fresh Snow!

In the past two weeks we've had some unusual weather throughout the area. Freezing levels dropped significantly and fresh snow accumulated on the mountain as low as 7000 ft. There was even a slight dusting of snow at Paradise covering the wildflowers, although it didn't last long.

On the upper mountain, the new snow created some difficulties for climbers travelling above Camp Muir, but within a few days the Disappointment Cleaver route was back in shape. Rocky sections were once again covered in snow, speeding up travel and making the route even more enjoyable!

Here in Basecamp we're beginning to prepare for the 2008 Rainier Mountain Festival. If you've never made it out to the festival before, come join us! There's lots of crazy deals on new and used equipment, mountaineering slide shows and demonstrations from world class climbers, great food and drink, and live entertainment throughout the day! Oh, and don't forget the alpine games, book signings from mountaineering legends like Jim Whittaker, Lou Whittaker, and Ed Viesturs, and a huge raffle comprised of over $10,000 in gear!

http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/

Summer Climbing Update

Even though labor day is fast approaching, we are happy to report that the climbing conditions on Rainier remain excellent. The Disappointment Cleaver Route has changed very little throughout the summer and is much more direct (i.e. shorter) than it was at the same time last year due to heavy spring snowfall. Get out on the mountain if you haven't had the chance yet this year!

While most climbers on Rainier take 2-3 days to climb a route like the Disappointment Cleaver, several local guides have made news recently by taking advantage of the route's direct conditions for setting new speed records. The previous record was held by former NPS climbing ranger Chad Kellogg, who in 2004 climbed from Paradise to the summit and back to Paradise in 4 hours, 59 minutes, and 1 second. While this seems unfathomable to most mortals, his record was broken not once, but twice this season! Check out this Seattle Times article about the friendly rivalry that has developed.

Thinking about climbing Rainier (at a more realistic pace) with RMI? Want to know what it's like to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver? RMI Guide Jenny Sherry was kind enough to take our helmet cam along on a climb earlier this month and captured some great footage that you can see here:




www.whittakermountaineering.com

Winter Climbing Stats on Mount Rainier

This comes from Mike Gauthier. Thanks Mike

What happened to all of the winter climbers?
This winter has delivered some rather amazing weather and snow conditions. As we've noted, Mount Rainier has seen its fair share of extended snowstorms and extreme avalanche conditions. But lately, that trend hasn’t been the case. Over the past few weeks, the mountain has largely been blessed with beautiful days and clear nights. Swarms of visitors have been making the most of these sunny skies, warmer temps and rather calm weather. Ski and snowshoe trails lace the Paradise area and virtually every prominent vista has a few down-hill tracks below them. Even the ski boots tracks has been pretty deep on recent weekends. But what’s noticeable is the lack of boot and ski tracks venturing beyond Camp Muir. With only a few weeks left in March and the remaining days of winter rapidly slipping away, we’re wondering "What happened to all of winter climbers?" During the last "normal" winter '05-'06 (loosely defined as Dec 1 March 31) 185 climbers attempted the summit on Mount Rainier. This winter ('07-'08) our climbing attendance has precipitously dropped to a lowly 42 attempts! One wonders, is this a trend? After reviewing the past six years (with the exception of last winter when the primary road was entirely closed), the next lowest attendance was '03-'04 when only 104 climbers attempted to summit. That number is more than double what we're seeing this year. So what gives?Of the 42 climbers this winter, only 6 have been successful (a 14.3% success rate). That success rate falls within the historic average during the same time range (Dec 1 – March 30). The winter high on Mount Rainier was 23.3% during the '06-'07 season (oddly enough when the road was closed) and the low was 1.6% in '05-'06. The big story, however, is the notable drop in the number of climbers attempting the summit. This data backs up the anecdotal observations of those who frequent the Park. They say that people are just not coming in as large numbers as they used to. With the exception of a few busy weekends this winter, the park has not seen the overall visitation that is normally expected. Taking into account this season’s well publicized avalanche concerns, this is somewhat understandable. Let’s face it, December 2007 and most of 2008 have been a tough year for positive Rainier press… The winter started with one avalanche fatality and was promptly followed by numerous road closures and other warnings of high avalanche danger. Certainly, the media picked up the tempo. There was plenty of coverage in every major newspaper including even the New York Times. At the main visitor centers, the most common questions received relate to the weather and avalanche conditions. Many people are calling to check if "the Mountain" is even ‘OPEN’. YES, "the Mountain" is "OPEN" and by all accounts "the Mountain" is looking pretty darn good on these recent clear days. So, here are those climbers stats for the past few winters. These cover December 1 - March 31. By the way, we normally consider winter attempts from Dec 21 to March 20 (or whatever the exact "winter" season is).
2007-2008 - 42 climbers - 6 summited
2006-2007 - 17 climbers - 4 summited
2005-2006 - 185 climbers - 3 summited
2004-2005 - 208 climbers - 32 summited
2003-2004 - 104 climbers - 4 summited
2002-2003 - 230 climbers - 36 summited
2001-2002 - 137 climbers - 14 summited

www.whittakermountaineering.com

Mount Tahoma Trail Update

Trail Report

March 15, 2008


Snow has returned to the trail and ski conditions are Great! Over the past three days the area around Copper Creek Hut has added 30 inches of new snow on top of an existing 7 foot base. Hut use drops off starting in April and if you have not yet stayed overnight at the Hut you may want to try and get a reservation. Ski conditions will be good well into May, but there is no public use after May 1.

Snow parking area is still located at the lower gate and will stay at that location for the next few weeks, maybe the rest of the season. The trails are being groomed, so come on out and enjoy the great snow conditions!

If you have any ideas on funding sources for the second new snow cat, please e-mail MTTA (mtta@skimtta.com).

One other item of interest is the Yurt is still standing after ½ dozen shoveling trips (see next newsletter), with a little luck it’s going to survive this winter because of a lot of very hard work from our volunteers.

Regards,
Bob Brown
Trail Operations Coordinator
Mount Tahoma Trails Association
mtta@skimtta.org
www.skimtta.org

Mount Rainier Paradise Report

February 15, 2008For Immediate ReleaseDonna Rahier, 36-0569-2211, ext. 2301Paradise Area Projected to Reopen Sunday, February 17, 2008Mount Rainier National Park Superintendent Dave Uberuaga advises that theroad to Paradise will remain closed until Sunday, February 17. The road hasbeen closed to the public since February 7 when the heavy snowfall in theCascades increased the avalanche hazard to the point that it was extremelydifficult to keep the road safely open. At that time, Paradise had 189inches of snow on the ground and continued heavy snow, followed by a wet,warming trend further increased the avalanche danger.Over the weekend more than 10 natural avalanches released depositing heavy,dense snow in several areas between Longmire and Paradise. The park’s RoadCrew began the slow task of removing the avalanche debris along with thenew snow that had accumulated(up to 10 feet in some locations). Throughoutthe week they have continued to blow and plow snow to clear the roadways,the parking areas, pullouts and provide access to buildings. OtherMaintenance personnel spent the week shoveling the deep snow frombuildings, accessways, water and sewer plants, and hydrants and otherfacilities that have been buried.Snow removal and cleanup will continue today, as well as getting thesnowplay area groomed and ready for use. The last remaining hurdle is asatisfactory water supply test, which has to be confirmed by the State ofWashington before reopening to the public can occur. We expect thatconfirmation on Saturday.

Plastic Mountaineering Boots

As many of you are finding out or have found out in the past 6 months, Koflach is no longer making plastic boots. We used Koflach boots in our rental fleet for the past 12 years, and are sorry to see them go. The one reason we liked Koflach is because in a rental fleet, they fit a wide range of feet well. Over the past 6 months, we have studied and tried the three remaining plastic boot companies to determine who we should go with in the future. We will carry Scarpa Inverno and Omega, Asolo AFS boots, along with the Lowa Cirvetta boots in our retail store. We have decided to carry the Scarpa Inverno boots in our rental fleet and will recommend the Scarpa Inverno with high alititude liners for those who are going to Denali. We are also in the midst of getting feedback from a dozen or so mountain guides in regards to the leather boot world. We carry some leather boots, but after we collect our data from the past 12 months we will be recommending leather options for Rainier and other mountains.

Sizing plastic boots can be very confusing below you will find sizing info for the Scarpa Boots

Sizing:

Scarpa manufactures its boots in whole AND half sizes, but the markings on the boots and packaging can be confusing. Here are several things to be aware of when you receive your new boots:

The sizes listed on the packaging and the boot components are given in UK sizes. UK sizes are one full size smaller than US sizes. Example: A size 10 UK is a size 11 US, and a size 10.5 UK is a size 11.5 US.
The inner boot (liner) is made in whole and half sizes. It is clearly labeled in UK sizes on the back of the ankle.
The outer shell boot is only made in whole sizes. Therefore, any half size boots use an outer shell that is one half size bigger than the inner boot. Example: A size 10.5 boot uses a size 10.5 inner boot and a size 11 outer shell. Sizes can be found in two places on the outer shell. The most obvious one is inside the collar of the boot (the flexible, hinged ankle portion). However, this is not the true size of the boot; it is simply the collar size. The true boot size is found just below the collar on inside of the main portion of boot, again in UK sizes.

Confused? Here is one final example: You ordered a size 9.5 US boot. The inner boot will be labeled 8.5, and the outer shell will be labeled 9. There may also be a small gold sticker on the outside of the shell identifying the boot as an 8.5.


Fit:

Be sure to wear appropriate socks when trying your boots on. We recommend a well-cushioned wool sock layered over a thin liner sock. When you lace your boots up, be sure to leave them loose around your ankle to allow for movement and to avoid bruising your shins. Walk around: your boots should feel loose but not sloppy. Unlike hiking boots or ski boots, it is normal for your heel to lift up inside of the boot when you walk. Now kick the toe of the boot into the ground: if your toes hit hard into the front of the boot, they may be too small. Remember, your feet will swell throughout the day, so it is a good idea to try your boots on after a long day on your feet.

Still confused about sizing? Not sure if the boots fit? Give us a call with any questions at 800-238-5756.

Snow anyone?

Mount Rainier National Park News Release

February 7, 2008
For Immediate Release
Lee Taylor 360-569-2211 x.6131

Road to Paradise Closed by Heavy Snow
February 7, 2008—Like the rest of the Cascades, Mount Rainier National Park has been buried by snow in recent weeks. Paradise, at 5,400 feet, has received at least a foot of snow every day since January 28 except for one.
More than 156 inches --13 feet -- of snow has fallen in the past 11 days!
"We’re closing the road from Longmire to Paradise to protect park visitors," said park Superintendent Dave Uberuaga. "Continuous winter storms have increased the avalanche hazards and made it very difficult to keep the road open.
Heavy mountain snow and windy conditions are expected to extend through Friday and into the weekend.
"We have the plows and drivers necessary to clear the snow, and we will reopen the road as soon as conditions improve," said Uberuaga.
With 189 inches of snow already on the ground at Paradise, one thing is for certain. Once the weather finally clears, snow play conditions at Paradise will be truly heavenly!
To check road and weather information at Mount Rainier National Park call
360-569-2211 and then select 1.

Mount Tahoma Trail Update

Trail Report

January 30, 2008

We now have seven to ten feet of snow up at the huts, with another two or three feet forecast prior to this weekend. The heavy snow has resulted in the snow park being moved 1.2 miles back down the road from the normal snow park (outhouse parking area). There is just too much snow, with no place to push it!

Getting to the hut from the current snow park requires 5.5 miles and a 1600-foot vertical climb. The first 2.5 miles from the snow park is being snowmobile groomed, once you reach the section of trail being groomed by our new snow cat you can expect approximately 20 miles of professionally groomed trails.

There is a narrow section that keeps our snow cat from accessing the lower 2.5 miles of trail.

If you are planning a trip to Copper Creek Hut you should consider the extra 1.2 miles and additional 600 vertical feet.

Once you reach the snow cat grooming, ski conditions are great! Normal winter snow fall from this point forward is going to result in record snow fall for our system this year. We will have a good skiable base well into May this year.

Check out our High Hut web cam which has been working lately. Our web page is being updated and you should check it out from time to time for current information.

Make sure you have tire chains and allow some extra time for your trip!

See you out on the trail.

Trail and Road update

A Quick update for you.
The MTTA trails on the Northside are well groomed and in excellent shape right now. The plan is for DNR to plow to the upper snowpark on Friday Jan 18th, YEAH
Paradise is covered with over 140 inches of snow and 40 inches at Longmire. The sledding at Paradise has been great.

For you mountaineers, who are planning a Summer 08 trip, the snow pack is about normal and everything looks good so far.

Mount Tahoma Ski Trail Information

Whittaker Mountaineering just recieved information about the MTTA Trail Conditions here it is. For those who don't know the trail system is just above Whittaker Mountaineering.

Trail Report

November 29, 2007

Today there was 8” of snow at the 92 road snow park and 2 feet up at Copper Creek Hut. The trails should all be groomed tomorrow and the road to the snow park is scheduled to be plowed today. We are in great need of donations to pay for grooming fuel (currently almost $4 per gallon in Ashford)!!!! Our funds are very low because of the unexpected need to purchase a plow blade to keep the snow park access roads open.

You might want to check out the High Hut web cam after 6 pm today, with luck and some adjustments we may have a current picture of the snow conditions at High Hut. Also see the copper creek picture attached for a pic taken today.

Are your skis and snowshoe’s ready? Today we had three inches of snow at the 92 road snow park and the forecast calls for snow on and off the rest of the week. Copper Creek hut is ready for the winter, the solar panel is charging the batteries, the propane tank is full, and all the new renovations (laminated wood floors, new tables & chairs, etc.) are ready for your use. New trail post and signs have been installed! Most of the trails between the snow park and the hut have been brushed out. All we need is snow and we are ready for business.

The long lead forecast for the entire winter calls for an excellent snow pack, good skiing all winter.

All of MTTA’s grooming equipment is ready to go and our new snow cat will be out on the trail by January 1, 2008. We still have $10,500 in sales tax to pay on the new snow cat. This by its self is a good reason to mail a donation.

For our trail to be successful we need three components to come together. The Hut must be in good order to handle our visitors, the trails from the snow park to the hut need to be groomed, and the roads from the main highway to the snow parking area needs to be plowed. Because of your help and donations we have all the major components in place.

One surprise that came upon us late this fall was our road plow contractor going out of business. Many of you may not understand how the roads to the snow parks are kept plowed. You purchase a snow park permit and those funds are used to plow the roads. This plowing is accomplished by private contractors hired by the agencies receiving grant funds. The Dept. of Natural Resources has received grants to plow the MTTA access road for many years. When their contractor informed them he would not be plowing this season they had to put out a request for snow plow bids. They did this twice and received no bids. Without a private contractor to do the plowing we (MTTA & DNR) were faced with a major problem.

DNR and MTTA have developed a partnership which is able to adapt to problems. DNR didn’t have any money in their budget to purchase a plow blade, but they did have a truck available. MTTA purchased a blade and DNR installed the blade. This year a DNR employee will be plowing the road with their truck and the (yellow) plow blade which MTTA purchased. If you can’t get to the snow parking areas, you have no trail!
Because of you donations of cash and volunteer labor we have a new snow cat to groom the trails. With DNR’s help we have a solution to keep the access roads plowed.

MTTA had to spend $6000 to purchase the new plow blade and this has left us very short on cash. With fuel running almost $4 per gallon we need your help to keep things running. Please consider mailing a donation today, Make checks payable to: MTTA and mail to P O BOX 206, Ashford, WA 98304. You can also go to our web page and use PayPal to make a donation via your credit card.

See you on the trail!


Regards,
Bob Brown
Trail Operations Coordinator
Mount Tahoma Trails Association
mtta@skimtta.org
www.skimtta.org

Mount Rainier Snowshoe

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to see new snow arriving about 5000 ft. It is time to dust of the snowshoes and XC skis. Paradise will be open for snowshoeing this winter. We will update this blog with information frequently about conditions. Make sure to check out our weather page as well.

Mount Rainier Route Weather Update Whittaker Mountaineering

Rainier Update 08/22/2007
A persistent marine cloud layer and cooler temperatures have been the trend on Mount Rainier this summer. Though we have not experienced a significant snowfall (it can snow 3 to 4 feet on the upper mountain), we did pick up 5 to 6 inches of snow above 11,000’ several days ago. The winter snow pack on the Muir snowfield is rapidly melting and patches of firm snow and ice are emerging, particularly around Moon Rocks at 9,000’. While the ice is a bit challenging, our guided teams are navigating around these sections and are able to do so without crampons.
From Camp Muir at 10,000’, the route traverses the Cowlitz Glacier. Several small crevasses are crossed as the trail ascends Cathedral Gap and onto the Ingraham Flats at 11,000’. From here the route drops down under Disappointment Cleaver, descending about 400 vertical feet. Once under the Cleaver, a series of switchbacks ascend the Emmons Glacier, up to about 11,500’, and take climbers to a new section of the route that was put in last week. The new trail works it way north on an ascending traverse which gains the Emmons Shoulder at around 11,800’. After several more switchbacks this new trail connects with the old route at around 12,400’. Here, the trail switchbacks up the shoulder and begins to traverse south at approximately 13,000’. These switchbacks are well established as they cross the upper Ingraham glacier and finish at Columbia Crest.
All in all, the route offers very typical late season climbing, and we expect similar conditions through the end of the climbing season.

Rainier Mountain Festival

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

Contact:
Jeremy Foust
Whittaker Mountaineering
PO BOX W
Ashford, Wash 98304
jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com
http://www.rainierfestival.com
PH (360) 569-2142
FAX (360) 569-2982

Sixth Annual Rainier Mountain Festival Features Top Climbers

Ashford, Wash., Wednesday, August 8, 2007

What: 2007 Rainier Mountain Festival
When: September 15 and 16, 2007
Where: Rainier Basecamp, 30027 SR 706 E, Ashford, Wash.
How Much: Admission is Free

For more info: www.rainierfestival.com

The Sixth Annual Rainier Mountain Festival will again feature a great gathering of American Mountaineers on September 15 and 16 in Ashford, Wash. Noted climbers will include Jim Whittaker (first American to summit Everest), Ed Viesturs (first American to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks without oxygen), Lou Whittaker (American climbing legend and founder of Rainier Mountaineering Inc), and over 15 other climbers who have stood on top of Everest. The climbers will be hosting films and slide shows, signing books, and conducting equipment demonstrations.
Other activities at the festival will include a ‘Post-Monsoon’ equipment and clothing clearance sale, a 5-mile run, Alpine Games, climbing wall for all ages, BBQ and local brews, live entertainment, raffles, mountaineering travel displays, kids’ games. A raffle will be done throughout the event and proceeds will go towards trail restoration in Mount Rainier National Park. Admission is free for all events except for the 5-mile run.
The festival will take place at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, Wash., just outside of Mount Rainier National Park.
Alpine Game events will include a head to head speed climbing event, timed tent erecting, sled pulls, and speed rope coiling, and winners will receive cash prizes.

Contact:
Jeremy Foust, Jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com
800-238-5756

Mount Rainier route conditions

Rainier Update 08/07/2007
August has arrived and conditions on Mount Rainier are typical for this time of year. The trails from Paradise (5,400') to Pebble Creek (7,200') are all melted out. From Pebble Creek to Camp Muir the snowfields are firm and beginning to get sun cupped making for ideal hiking conditions. Rock features such as The Bear ((8,200'), Top of Moon Rocks (9,200'), and Anvil Rock (9,500') on the snowfield are emerging as the winter snow pack has melted.
From Camp Muir the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier with just several small crevasse to be stepped over. Cathedral Gap (10,500') is all rock and scree with a nice trail leading up to the Ingraham Glacier (10, 800'). Several large crevasses on top of Disappointment Cleaver have made access off of the Cleaver onto the Emmons Glacier challenging and due to this the route has been moved. The trail accesses the Emmons underneath the Cleaver and then ascends up the Emmons in a series of switchbacks hitting the Emmons shoulder at about 12,300'. From the shoulder, the route works its way up to 13,000' and then traverses south back to the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.

Koflach Degre and Expe Boots Whittaker Mountaineering

Have you heard? Koflach is no longer going to be making plastic mountaineering boots. Whittaker Mountaineering first heard this in the spring and have tried to get our hands on as many as possible. We have used Koflach Degre boots in our rental fleet for years, and have had good luck with the Expe on Denali. We are now in the process of looking at what to do next. There are still several expeditions that using a plastic mountaineering boot makes sense, and in a rental situation it seems to always make the most sense. (because you don't have to break in double plastic boots) We have put Scarpa and Lowa boots in our rental fleet to see if they hold up well, and gather climbers feedback to see what direction to go in for 2008. We are meeting with Plastic Boot manufactures in a few weeks to see what will best work for those who are interested in purchasing plastic boots in the future. In the mean time we do have several sizes of the boots available so don't miss your chance. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/categories.asp?d=Footwear&cat=3&root=undefined&rootid=undefined

Mount Rainier Weather Update

Yes, the strange wet July week of weather looks like it is over. From July 16-July 22, Mt Rainier and the whole state of Washington experienced some wet times. Summer seems to be back which is a good thing. Groups are summitting again, and the route looks to be okay. We will have a detailed route update soon.

Weatherwise Article about Whittaker Mountaineering Adviser

On the Job:Alex Van SteenAlex
Van Steen is a guide for Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., a mountaineering company based in Mount Rainier National Park, WA. Van Steen, who began climbing as a teenager, has more than 50 first ascents under his belt, and he’s made two attempts on Everest; the second time he reached 28,000 feet before turning back. Van Steen has summitted Mount Rainier more than 200 times, leading climbers past treacherous icefalls and crevasses on the mountain’s steep slopes.
What are the worst weather conditions that you’ve ever experienced on a mountain?

I think probably the worst weather I’ve experienced was when I was high up on a mountain trying to sleep in a tent. The tent was strapped down fairly well, but really strong winds made me concerned that the tent was going to tear apart. And so I put on—and this is a common strategy—all my clothing and my boots. Although I caught maybe a little bit of rest, I certainly didn’t sleep. But if the tent disintegrated around me, then at least I would have had my clothing on, like my suit, and my boots.

Is it possible for the tent to blow off a mountain with you in it?

You could be in it. We tie it down with three-millimeter cord, and then on some of these peaks where we’re very exposed, we have a net made of one-inch webbing, and we actually anchor the tent down underneath that net. It would really take a lot to tear a tent off the mountain, but on some places, like Mount McKinley and Mount Everest, they do get destroyed.

Do you find the extreme weather to be part of the appeal?

I enjoy the extreme weather very much. There’s a limit, obviously, if you’re in over your head or it’s ridiculously uncomfortable. That’s no fun for anybody, so you say, “let’s turn around.” But I enjoy being able to deal with that kind of weather and navigate in it and survive in it and play in it. I have a metabolism where I get warm very easily. I don’t get cold very easily, so I do really well in cold temperatures.
—MEGHAN JOYCE is the assistant editor for Weatherwise.

Denali Update

Denali has seen some interesting weather this season. Here is an update

West Buttress
May 2: Summited May 21

May 9: Summited May 23

May 16: Reached 19,600'

May 23: Summited June 12

May 30: Summited June 14

June 13: Summited June 29

June 20: Reached 17,200' June 27:

West RibJune 7: Reached 19,800'

If you are looking for to read dispatches from 2007 click here http://www.rmiguides.com/mckinley/mckinley_dispatches.html

Wanting to read a expedition journal by Seth Waterfall.

http://www.rmiguides.com/pdfs/Expedition-Journal_MountMcKinley_Waterfall2.pdf

Blinded in Iraq, he climbs Rainier.

TheNewsTribune.comSection: Local

Blinded in Iraq, he beats Rainier MELANTHIA MITCHELL; The Associated Press

Scott Smiley lives life a little differently since being blinded by shrapnel that ripped through his eyes in a suicide bombing in Iraq, but it’s a challenge he has embraced.
The 27-year-old Army captain reached the summit of Mount Rainier on Tuesday. And he’ll be honored Thursday as the Army Times’ Soldier of the Year.
Smiley, who lost his sight in a 2005 bombing in Mosul, reached the top of the 14,411-foot peak early in the day along with several other climbers, including a half dozen guides from Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
“The team did summit at 8 a.m. on the north side of the mountain,” said Peter Whittaker, an RMI co-owner who talked to the group by radio. He said the climbing party immediately began descending so that Smiley could catch a flight to Washington, D.C., for the Soldier of the Year ceremony. The award is presented by Army Times Publishing Co.
Mount Rainier is considered a technical, difficult climb, and to attempt it climbers must have a certain level of skill or be guided. Of 8,972 attempts made in 2005, the most recent data available, 4,604 reached the summit.
Smiley’s group was led by guides Art Rausch and Andy Kittleson. It set out Sunday, overnighting at about 7,500 feet, below Camp Muir – the most popular route to the top. The next day they stopped at Camp Muir before pushing toward the summit early Tuesday.
The group included retired 1st Lt. Ed Salau of New Bern, N.C., who lost a leg in a 2004 grenade attack in Iraq. Whittaker said Salau had stayed at Camp Muir while the party climbed the peak.
The climb was sponsored by Camp Patriot, a company in Libby, Mont., that provides outdoor recreational experiences for disabled veterans.
Weather, avalanche danger and overall physical health are huge challenges for anybody who climbs Mount Rainier.
For Smiley, the risks are even greater, said Whittaker, noting that throughout the climb, guides had to remain close, with one person in front and behind the soldier.
Whittaker spent about 10 minutes with Smiley’s group Sunday. “I was very impressed. They were moving very well,” he said.
The soldier from Pasco has wanted to climb Rainier since visiting Fort Lewis several years ago as a West Point cadet. He currently lives in Durham, N.C., with wife, Tiffany, and their 8-week-old son and is assigned to headquarters of the Army Accessions Command at Fort Monroe, Va.
“He loves it,” Tiffany Smiley said during an earlier telephone interview with The Associated Press. “It’s just who he is.”
She added that since being blinded, her husband has surfed off the coast of Hawaii, gone skydiving and skied Vail. He also climbed Mount Democrat, a 14,148-foot peak in Colorado.
Smiley was injured in Iraq in April 2005 while serving with the 1st Brigade, 25th Infantry Division – a Stryker combat team formerly based at Fort Lewis.
His unit came upon a suspicious man sitting in a vehicle. When Smiley fired off a couple warning shots, the man raised his hands and the car exploded.
“Everything went black,” said Tiffany Smiley, recalling the attack as her husband had described it.
Shrapnel embedded in his eyes and brain, leaving him temporarily paralyzed and permanently blind. Doctors had to remove one eye. He was eventually fitted with a prosthetic blue eye.
“It was hard,” she said. “It took him awhile to realize what had happened.”
But after receiving a Purple Heart just weeks after his injury, Smiley realized he could still do things he’d done before, including stay in the Army. He learned to walk with a cane, read Braille and traveled the country to speak to other soldiers.
“He is still the same person, he just does things in a different way now,” his wife said.

Mount Rainier Route Conditions

Rainier Update 07/09/2007
Conditions on Mount Rainier are rapidly changing from spring to summer. Most of the snow is melting at Paradise (5,400’) and the meadows are beginning to emerge. The established trail up to Pebble Creek (7,200’) is turning from snow to dirt, and it will not be long before the permanent snowline is at Pebble Creek.
The Disappointment Cleaver route is in great shape for this time of year. A thick winter snow pack is covering most of the rock and scree on the Cleaver from 11,000’ to 12,300’. The snow not only reduces the amount of rock fall on the cleaver, but also makes ascending and descending much easier. Several hundred feet above the top of the cleaver the route crosses a small break up where the Emmons glacier pulls away from the rock. This is the start of a long (mostly level) traverse to the Emmons shoulder where the route then ascends in a series of switchbacks up to around 13,000’. From here the trail heads back to the south in an ascending long traverse crossing several crevasses at the top of the Ingraham glacier, and on up to Columbia Crest. Temperatures are forecasted to break records in the Seattle area this week pushing up into the mid 90’s. The heat will be felt on Rainier as freezing levels climb up to near 15,000’

Mountain Hardwears Mission Project

Announcing the Mission Project!

Go Big and Go Blog!
Mountain Hardwear's Mission Project: test both yourself and our gear, tell fellow adventurers about it, and enter to win great prizes, including the gear hog's Holy Grail, a guided trip up Mt. Rainier and $2,000 shopping spree.
Redpoint that pesky climb. Bag Colorado's 14ers in a single summer. Knock out 30,000 vert in 30 days at your climbing gym (hopefully not all to the same song). Nail your first triathlon. Escape on a point-to-point backpack trip. Clean Moab's Slickrock Trail. Whatever you do, take your Mountain Hardwear gear, put it through its paces, and tell our customers how it performed. That's how we got our start, and we want you to do the same.
Why on the blog? So you can share our passion for the outdoors -- and Mountain Hardwear's innovation, reliability, and quality -- with others, tell your stories, post photos and more. Blog visitors will be able to see first hand how our tents, sleeping bags, backpacks and other gear helped you reach your goal.
Best yet, your accomplishment isn't your only reward. We'll be awarding monthly Mountain Hardwear prizes for the top submissions, with those winners going into a pool for three first-place prizes (awarded in May, September and December) and one Grand Prize.
Prizes: Monthly: A piece of Mountain Hardwear gear (could be a jacket, pack, sleeping bag or tent) and a limited edition sweatshirt First-place: $1,000 Mountain Hardwear shopping spree at an authorized Mountain Hardwear outdoor retailer Grand Prize: Guided mountaineering trip up Mt. Rainier, plus $2,000 Mountain Hardwear shopping spree at RMI (complete with personal shopper guidance provided by Peter Whittaker). Winner announced during first week of January 2008
How It Works:
Simply set a goal and achieve it, and then post your entry on our blog (blog.mountainhardwear.com), explaining your accomplishment and role your Mountain Hardwear gear played (photos of gear in use strongly encouraged)
Winners will be based on the level of accomplishment and creativity of endeavor, judged by our esteemed Mountain Hardwear panel. Please use your best judgment in executing your mission, and always put safety first.
Important: No purchase necessary. Open to legal residents of the U.S. and Canada (excluding Quebec) who are 18 or older. Contest runs from February 1, 2007 to December 31, 2007. For instructions and complete Official Rules, visit blog.mountainhardwear.com. Contest is sponsored by Mountain Hardwear, Inc. and is void in Quebec and where prohibited.

Updated Route Conditions for Mt Rainier

Rainier Update 07/03/2007
Conditions on Mount Rainier are rapidly changing from spring to summer. Most of the snow is melting at Paradise (5,400’) and the meadows are beginning to emerge. The established trail up to Pebble Creek (7,200’) is turning from snow to dirt, and it will not be long before the permanent snowline is at Pebble Creek.
Temperatures have been below average the last several weeks, with the snow level for the most part staying below 9,000’. This cooler trend will help keep the upper mountain frozen and in good shape as the summer climbing season progresses. Freezing levels are forecasted to rise to above 13,000 next week.
Snow conditions on the Muir snowfield are still good for boarding and skiing. In fact, several inches of fresh snow fell last night providing “fresh pow pow” for summer sliding. The ridge at Camp Muir (10,000’) is also emerging as the winter snow pack begins to recede. From Muir to the Ingraham Flats (11,000’), several small crevasses are beginning to open up on the Cowlitz Glacier. Cathedral gap is all rock and scree. The approach onto Disappointment Cleaver is in good shape, and the traverse to the Nose and climb up the Spine is all snow. From the top of the Cleaver, the route traverses north to the Emmons Shoulder and a series of switchbacks ascends the Emmons to approximately 13,000’. The trail then heads back on a long ascending traverse across the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.

Rainier Route Conditions

Rainier Update 06/29/2007
Conditions on Mount Rainier are rapidly changing from spring to summer. Most of the snow is melting at Paradise (5,400’) and the meadows are beginning to emerge. The established trail up to Pebble Creek (7,200’) is turning from snow to dirt, and it will not be long before the permanent snowline is at Pebble Creek.
Temperatures have been below average the last several weeks, with the snow level for the most part staying below 9,000’. This cooler trend will help keep the upper mountain frozen and in good shape as the summer climbing season progresses. Freezing levels are forecasted to rise to above 13,000 next week.
Snow conditions on the Muir snowfield are still good for boarding and skiing. In fact, several inches of fresh snow fell last night providing “fresh pow pow” for summer sliding. The ridge at Camp Muir (10,000’) is also emerging as the winter snow pack begins to recede. From Muir to the Ingraham Flats (11,000’), several small crevasses are beginning to open up on the Cowlitz Glacier. Cathedral gap is all rock and scree. The approach onto Disappointment Cleaver is in good shape, and the traverse to the Nose and climb up the Spine is all snow. From the top of the Cleaver, the route traverses north to the Emmons Shoulder and a series of switchbacks ascends the Emmons to approximately 13,000’. The trail then heads back on a long ascending traverse across the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.

Denali Season update

For those who have the desire to climb Denali in the upcoming years, check out a journal from Seth Waterfall, mount guide, who shares his 2007 Denali experience. http://www.rmiguides.com/pdfs/Expedition-Journal_MountMcKinley_Waterfall2.pdf

RMI latest update.

May 2: Summited May 21
May 9: Summited May 23
May 16: Reached 19,600'
May 23: Summited June 12
May 30: Summited June 14

Whittaker Mountaineering has recieved postive remarks about the gear we have sent out this year on Mac. The early season seemed to have some bad weather. We hope for a safe rest of the year in Alaska.

Guide Services on Mt Rainier

Guiding rights - Three services share Muir Route on Rainier for first time
CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Published: June 21st, 2007 01:00 AM
PHOTOS BY JANET JENSEN/THE NEWS TRIBUNE
Mountain Day School students, including, from left, Ashlie Angel and Erica Dohring, get into position at Mount Rainier to learn recovery and ice ax arrest techniques after a fall. Instructors from International Mountain Guides teach the class a day before the students attempt to climb the mountain.

Guides from Rainier Mountaineering Inc., which used to be the only guide service authorized to use the Muir Route up Mount Rainier, lead a group of climbers up the peak.

Eben Reckord, center, teaches students Luke Angel, left, from Colorado, and Lary Catt, right, from California, ice ax technique as part of a school offered by International Mountain Guides for those who wish to climb Mount Rainier.

History was quietly made on the upper slopes of Mount Rainier last month. In the predawn hours of May 13, climbing parties from different guide services passed each other on the popular Muir Route.
The lead guides from International Mountain Guides and Alpine Ascents International exchanged their observations about route and weather conditions, their clients chatted with each other and then they continued climbing.
AAI had decided to turn around because of blizzard conditions, and IMG would soon make the same decision.
“I think things went well,” said Todd Burleson, owner of AAI. “I think the arrangement is going to work well with three guide services on the route.”
May was the first month multiple guide services were allowed on Rainier’s Muir Route. Since 1969, Ashford-based Rainier Mountaineering Inc. was the only company allowed to guide on the route.
RMI is still king of the mountain with permission to climb with 24 guides and clients each day. IMG and AAI each get 12.
The Muir route, on the south side of the mountain, is by far the most popular for climbers. It is easily accessed from the Paradise parking lot, and Camp Muir, above 10,000 feet, offers a convenient overnight stop.
Of the 9,154 registered climbers in 2006, 71.4 percent used the Muir Route.
Alex Van Steen, a senior guide for RMI, expects the three companies to share the route smoothly this summer. However, he won’t be surprised if there is some congestion.
“It’s like putting three coffee shops on the same corner,” Van Steen said.
If you are expecting a heated competition between the companies, think again.
Eric Simonson, co-owner of IMG, says he, Burleson and RMI co-owner Peter Whittaker recently took a helicopter flight together to Camp Muir to map out how they’ll share the camp this year.
He said the men, who have known each other for years, worked together with ease.
“It might get competitive off the mountain,” Burleson said. “But not on the mountain.”
Most of the guides from the three companies have guided together on Rainier or other mountains. In fact, many, including IMG’s owners, once worked at RMI.
“We all know and respect each other,” Burleson said. “We will share information, and it will make things safer for everybody.
“I don’t think we will have companies trying to force their way to the summit when others are turning around. If anything, I think if one turns around the other will, too, because keeping our clients safe is the top priority for all of us.”
The new arrangement will change the face of Camp Muir a bit. RMI’s bunkhouse will be divided between the companies. IMG and AAI will alternate days in the smaller section of the boxy structure.
Additionally, RMI is adding solar panels to light its side of the bunkhouse, and the three companies will set up a temporary structure for the season.
IMG and AAI will never be at Muir at the same time. Instead, they will bring a new twist to climbing the Muir Route.
Instead of training clients the day before the climb, both companies will offer training en route by adding a day to what is a two-day climb with RMI.
After a day of training at Camp Muir, the party will climb 1,000 feet to camp in tents on the Ingraham Flats on the second night. Then, on the third day, they attempt the summit.
“It’s a double-edged sword,” Simonson said. “You don’t have to climb as far on the summit day, and you get more time to get acclimated, but you also have to carry your gear a little farther up the mountain.”
Climbers will likely have to take packs as large as 60 pounds to 11,000 feet. In the past, RMI’s clients carried much lighter packs because they stayed in the bunkhouse and did not have to pack a tent.
Van Steen says RMI isn’t offering a similar climb because its clients traditionally prefer two-day climbs. After a day of training, the clients have a night to tweak their gear and dry out at sea level before starting up the mountain. IMG is also offering a two-day climb with separate training.
“Having that chance to fine-tune things and get a good dinner before doing your marathon is huge,” Van Steen said. “It’s a little more difficult once you’ve already started.
“I think it can be the key to success.”
With one month under their belts, the guide services say things are off to a good start, but the busier summer season is just around the corner.
“I think it will continue to go smoothly,” Van Steen said. “I imagine it will take us the entire summer to figure out what we can do better next year.”
GUIDING THE MUIR ROUTE
Since 1969, Rainier Mountaineering Inc. has been the only guide service on Rainier’s Muir Route – the route used by more than 70 percent of climbers. That changed this month as two more companies were allowed on the route.

RAINIER MOUNTAINEERING INC.
Ashford
Owners: Lou Whittaker, Peter Whittaker, Joe Horiskey
Client-to-guide ratio: 3-to-1 (2-to-1 on other routes)
Price: $805 (two days plus climbing school), $1,109 (three days plus climbing school)
Highlights: The only company to guide the Muir Route before this season. RMI also offers climbs on the Emmons, Kautz and Liberty Ridge routes. RMI has numerous training clinics including a Mount McKinley preparation program. They have guided internationally for two years.
Notable guides
Dave Hahn: He holds the U.S. record with eight summits of Mount Everest; guides internationally for IMG.
Brent Okita: More than 200 Rainier summits.
Craig Van Hoy: More than 350 Rainier summits.
Alex Van Steen: More than 225 Rainier summits and co-author of the first Rainier climbing guide.
Ed Viesturs: The only American to climb the world’s 14 8,000-meter summits.
Peter Whittaker: He has done more than 200 Rainier ascents.
This year: Most climbs are full, and there is a waiting list. RMI will start taking reservations next month for 2008.
Information: 360-569-2227, rmiguides.com
Craig Hill: 253-597-8497
craig.hill@thenewstribune.com

Our Denali gear and Equipment is holding up

Two summits by RMI teams on Denali already in this early season. Whittaker Mountaineering provides retail and rental gear for a lot of those who are attempting to climb Denali. Looks like great reviews on the Purple Haze overboots, Grivel G12 Crampons and the Absolute Zero Parka. We will have a report on the climbs up shortly.

Friends of Whittaker Mountaineering Summit Everest

Congratulations goes out to Casy Grom for his first Mt Everest summit on May 20th. Super Congrats goes out to Dave Hahn for his 9th Mt Everest summit. We appreciate both guys testing and feedback of Whittaker Mountaineering products over the past few years.

Rainier Climbing Season Begins

Whittaker Mountaineering wants to thank Mount Rainier National Park and all its staff for working hard to open the park on May 4th. The Road to Paradise is now open and the climbing season is underway. We are pleased to announce that RMI first climbing team of the Summer 2007 Season summitted a couple of days ago. We wish all climbers a safe and successful season. Let us know if we can help you with your Rainier adventure in any way. Enjoy the Mountain

Whittaker Mountaineering Staff

Article in the Seattle Paper

Whittaker Mountaineering is very fortunate to have climbers like Brent Okita recommending gear and equipment for us to bring in the store. See the article below.
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/getaways/312883_rainier26.html

New Video Clips on Website

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to release the new gear video clips featuring Ed Viesturs, Melissa Arnot and Peter Whittaker. Take a look and let us know what you think.
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/videos.asp

Mt Rainier Closure will not effect Guided Climbs

For those of you who are using a guide service to climb during the 2007, especially those who have signed up for a trip in May. (The park is expected to open sometime in May) Do not worry about your climb. Guide Services are able to get up to Paradise and begin their ascent there. The Mountain has plenty of snow, and we wish everyone a safe climbing season.

Whittaker Mountaineering Staff

We will post online when the park officially opens

Introducing Jansport Whittaker LR 2007 Pack

We spent a few seasons testing this pack on Rainier, Whittaker Mountaineering believes you will enjoy this pack. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/detail.asp?p=580&c=Backpacks&cat=1&rootid=undefined&root=undefined

Unbound edge and laminated shoulder straps with dual density foam and sternum strap rail for low-friction carrying comfort
GridFit™ easy adjust harness plate fits 17"-19" torso lengths plus 2" shoulder width adjustment suspension
Top-loading main compartment with easy access alternative entry on lower front for quick gear stuffing
Easy access, high mount exterior pocket
HDPE framesheet with dual 6061 tubular stays and soft form helmet recess
3D water bottle pockets with pass-thru gear sleeves
Reinforced side compression straps keep pack close to the body and manage the load
Full vertical internal compression
Reinforced center compression for vertical snowboard carry
Compression-molded back panel and reinforced hipbelt for cushioning comfort

VX07 Sailcloth / 840 Denier Junior Ballistic

5 lbs. / 2.3 kg

5''h x 15''w x 14.5''d

4400 cu in / 72.1L

Rainier Mountain Festival

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to announce the dates of this years Rainier Mountain Festival. We will be having the festival on September 15th and 16th 2007. For more informations visit their website at www.rainierfestival.com

Park Road Construction

I know a lot of people are concerned with the park not being open for the past 3 months as they deal with the flooding and road construction. For those who are climbing with a guide service, there is no need to worry. We will be shuttled up to Paradise no matter what. The park expects the road to re-open sometime in April/May. So everyone can enjoy the park. If you have any further questions feel free to contact Whittaker Mountaineering.

Upcoming Free Events

Whittaker Mountaineering will be providing free beginner Snowshoe and XC skiing Course on the Mount Tahoma Trails. For more information visit this weblink.
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/events.asp

Enjoy the snow and the mountain.

What's a foot? Does it matter to you?

Whittaker Mountaineering found this article in the local Tacoma News Tribune. Interesting!
Taking the measure of a mountain

CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Eight hours after we stood on the roof of Washington last summer, our guides rewarded us with certificates that read “Mount Rainier, 14,410 feet.”
Aware many others believe the mountain is actually a foot taller, I raised my hand to get the scoop from Alex Van Steen, our lead guide from Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
“Hey, what happened to the extra foot?” I asked. “I’m pretty sure I felt it up there.”
“Nope,” Van Steen said with a smile. “The official height is 14,410 and 13 inches.”
Van Steen isn’t the only person who has his bases covered.
Ashford resident Steve Miller has vanity plates with Rainier’s elevation for his cars. The plates read “14410” on his Toyota pickup and “14411” on his Subaru Forester.
So what’s in a foot?
Most people – including career climbers and the U.S. Geological Survey – don’t really seem to care.
In fact, it doesn’t have official summit elevations for most mountains, including Rainier, said Steve Reiter of the USGS. The 14,410 USGS listing on maps is calculated from the agency’s highest Rainier benchmark, which is at 14,399 feet. A benchmark is a permanent point whose known elevation is part of a national network.
Mount Rainier National Park climbing ranger Mike Gauthier recently made the mistake of saying he didn’t care about the differing elevations during a slide-show presentation.
“Sure enough, some guy raised his hand,” Gauthier said. “It’s a big issue to some people. … It’s the state’s icon. It’s on the license plate.”
That’s precisely why people like Paul White think there should be an agreed-upon official elevation.
“If it was some other mountain, it wouldn’t be that important,” said White, a Lakewood resident. “But it’s our symbol. It’s going to be on the Washington quarter. They wouldn’t have remeasured it if it wasn’t important.”
In fact, it was the remeasurements in 1989 and 1999 for the state and national park’s respective centennials that tacked on the extra foot to the USGS 1956 measurement.
Using Global Positioning Satellites, the Land Surveyors Association of Washington calculated Rainier’s elevation at 14,411.1 in ’89 and 14,411.05 in ’99.
After the measurements, many changed their references for Rainier, but others stuck with the USGS calculation.
The result has been a sometimes humorous, often overlooked discrepancy that has become a curious Rainier footnote.
When two climbing guidebooks to Rainier were published in 1999, the first, written by Van Steen and Fred Beckey, listed the summit at 14,411 feet. A few months later, Gauthier’s version said 14,410.
Eric Simonson says his company, International Mountain Guides, uses 14,411 feet, even though his Web site says 14,410.
“I guess it depends on the day of the week and who you are talking to,” Simonson said.
Even the USGS has one reference to the higher elevation on its Web site, and Reiter says the GPS measurement is likely more accurate.
Wikipdia.com lists both elevations in the same article.
And, for good measure, the Smithsonian lists the elevation at 14,409 feet.
“Which elevation is most accurate?” said Dave Doyle of the National Geodetic Survey. “Well, that’s the stuff graduate degrees are made off.”
NOT OFFICIAL
Reiter says it’s a common misconception that there is a USGS benchmark at the summit of every mountain. In fact, the exact summit elevation isn’t vital to the USGS, he says.
The highest benchmark on Rainier is 14,399 feet, placed in the highest exposed rock outcropping.
“We place the benchmarks at known locations and elevations that are ideal for surveyors,” Reiter said, adding that precise summit elevations often aren’t necessary for making accurate maps.
From these benchmarks, the USGS calculates summit elevations.
Doyle says the USGS’ calculation of Rainier’s summit has a margin of error of plus or minus 5 feet.
“Most people are surprised to learn that quite a few famous peaks like Rainier don’t have official elevations,” Reiter said.
The USGS hasn’t measured any mountains in Washington since the arrival of GPS technology in the late 1970s, although they do use GPS.
Mount Rainier National Park uses 14,410 feet for the elevation because it uses USGS numbers, said park natural resources manager Roger Andrascik.
THE 1956 MEASUREMENT
Before Enumclaw’s Larry Signani led the GPS measurements of Rainier, he got hold of the notes from the USGS’ 1956 measurement.
According to the notes, the summit’s elevation was set based on the average of several triangulation measurements. And because of the margin of error, Signani says the elevation was rounded up as much as 2 feet, to 14,410.
“This is not saying anything negative about past measurements,” Signani said. “This is the best they had at the time.”
GPS: 14,411.05
Rainier was the first mountain measured using GPS technology in 1989. The Land Surveyors of Washington, led by Signani, hauled two suitcase-size GPS receivers to the summit.
For reference, 12 more receivers were placed at known elevations on and around Rainier.
“The more reference sites you use, the more accurate the reading,” Signani said.
In 1999, the surveyors used 16 reference receivers in measuring an elevation 1.5 centimeters shorter than their first measurement.
“Our measurements are accurate within a centimeter,” Signani said. “That’s pretty accurate.”
RIGHT ROUND, FOR THE RECORD
The Smithsonian Institution lists the summit of Rainier at 14,409 feet.
Lee Siebert, the Smithsonian’s volcano data specialist, says the difference is likely a rounding issue.
The Smithsonian uses USGS measurements; however, many USGS maps list Rainier at 4,392 meters. Sure enough, the conversion gives you an elevation of 14,409.4 feet. However, the USGS had already rounded down from about 4,392.2 meters – a difference of about 8 inches.
The North Dakota Space Grant Consortium uses Smithsonian data. However, after being contacted by The News Tribune, the consortium’s content editor – Oregon State University geosciences graduate student Chris Harpel – said the organization plans to switch to 14,410 feet to match the USGS.
Siebert did not indicate if the Smithsonian will change its elevation.
WHERE’S ZERO?
You aren’t going to get college credit for reading this section, but you probably should.
We’ll start with a quiz.
Mount Rainier is 14,411 (or 14,410) feet above what?
A. Mean sea level.
B. The geoid.
C. The reference ellipsoid.
If you said A or B you are correct. If you said C, you are off by 63.1 feet.
The USGS has always used height above sea level for its elevations, and as a result that has become the popular reference.
However, because the ocean’s surface rises and falls depending upon gravitational pull, sea level differs by location, Reiter said. And because most mountains don’t rise directly from the sea, scientists created a reference called the geoid, which extends mean sea level over the continents.
GPS technology measures height above another imagined Earth surface – the reference ellipsoid.
This is a smooth egg-shaped reference roughly Earth’s size and figure. In some places, the ellipsoid is below mean sea level, and in others, like the United States, it is above. GPS elevation is usually converted to feet above sea level.
At Mount Rainier, the ellipsoid is 63.1 feet above mean sea level, according to USGS records, so you would add that figure to the GPS measurement.
“Basically determining the elevation comes down to ‘Where is zero?’” Reiter said. “And can you even determine where zero is.”
Not confusing enough? For extra credit, check out the National Geodetic Survey’s explanation at www.ngs.noaa.gov/GEOID.
UPS AND DOWNS
The elevation of Mount Rainier’s summit changes all the time.
Because there is no exposed rock at Rainier’s highest point, the summit rises and falls depending on the temperature, snowfall and summit traffic.
“Depending on if it’s summer or winter, it fluctuates a few feet,” said Peter Whittaker, RMI’s CEO. “What I know for sure is it’s a darn long way up there.”
For those who make a living on the mountain, the summit seemed especially low this summer.
“I think it was about a foot lower than normal this year because it was so warm,” said Gauthier, Mount Rainier National Park’s lead climbing ranger. “I even saw a small crevasse near the summit for the first time.”
HOME MEASUREMENTS
So, maybe you’re thinking, “I have a GPS handset; why don’t I just hike up there and put an end to the debate?”
Well, it’s not that simple.
Standing on the summit last year, I got a reading that wasn’t even close. After adding my geoid height (the difference between mean sea level and the ellipsoid), my handset said 14,151 feet above sea level.
“That doesn’t surprise me,” Signani said. “Those little handheld receivers only have an accuracy within about 30 meters (981/2 feet) when you are measuring elevation. Plus, it has no reference points like we do when we use survey quality GPS, so that’s going to make it even less accurate.”
How about an altimeter?
“Altimeters are unreliable, too, because they are based on barometric pressure,” Signani said. “They are effected by temperature and humidity, so your reading will be different day to day.”
THE FUTURE
Soon surveyors in Washington will be able to measure Rainier – and everything else in the state – even more accurately.
The state is installing a web of continuously running GPS stations called the Washington State Reference Network.
“This will revolutionize the way we determine elevations,” Signani said. “It allows for centimeter positioning. This is the measurement future for Washington.”
TNT STYLE
It wouldn’t be fair to point out the inconsistencies of others without taking a shot at ourselves.
The News Tribune has bounced between both elevations since the 1999 GPS measurement. We used 14,411 feet in stories last summer, but we’ve used the shorter height in stories as recently as last month. We don’t have an official elevation in our local stylebook.
Hardly the consistency you’d expect from an organization that not only prides itself on accuracy but also has the mountain in its logo.
However, after researching this story, we’ve decided to settle on 14,411 feet as our official style.
“The first rule of journalism is accuracy. It’s also the second rule. And the third,” said News Tribune editing team leader Jim Kresse. “It just makes sense to go with the survey that uses the latest technologies and most recent measurements that give the most accurate reading.”
Craig Hill: 253-597-8497
craig.hill@thenewstribune.com
THE EVER-CHANGING ELEVATION
Year, Elevation, Credit, Method
1841 12,333 Lt. Charles Wilkes Triangulation
1879 14,444 James Smyth Lawson Barometer
1888 14,524 E.S. Ingraham Barometer
1896 14,519 USGS Barometer
1897 14,528 Edgar McClure Barometer
1902 14,363 USGS Barometer
1905 14,394 Alexander McAdie Barometer
1914 14,408 USGS Triangulation
1956 14,410 USGS Triangulation
1989 14,411.1 LSAW GPS
1999 14,411.05 LSAW GPS
SOURCES: National Park Service and Land Surveyors of Washington

Rainy Days at Mount Rainier

Heavy rain hit Mt Rainier earlier this week. Paradise recorded 18 inches of rain in a 36 hour period. Yes, Whittaker Mountaineering stayed dried, but wet indeed. Some of the roads throughout the park have been washed out. The park is currently closed to the public. We will continue to monitor the floods and updates in the future.

Upcoming Posts

Deep breathe,
The 2006 climbing season is officially over and it was a safe and succesfull season. As we sit here at the base of Mt. Rainier now waiting for snow to fall in tree tops above, we begin to plan for 2007. There will be a lot of exciting changes for the upcoming year and we look foward to sharing those with you on this blog on a more regular basis. In then next few weeks look foward to new information on Denali, our new rental gear will be selected and finalized by tomorrow, and we will be excited to share with you what new items will be in our rental fleet. New programs will be offered on Mount Rainier along with other mountain around the world. Our Holiday sale will start on November 15th. We are looking forward to a good winter here at Whittaker Mountaineering.

Climbing Routes on Mt. Rainier

The early season climbs on Mount Rainier saw many ascents via the Disappointment Cleaver. This route, the DC, is usually climbed later in the summer season. However, since there was little snow during the end of the winter season, the Ingraham Direct had been unnavigatable until recently. The past three weeks of low pressure systems in the Northwest have created conditions that have made navigation of the Direct route possible. Currently both the DC and the Direct route have been both ascended and descended.

Mount Rainier Conditions

The climbing route on Mt. Rainier is typical for this time of the year. Although snow is covering most of the mountain, snowshoes have not been necessary for the approach to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet. RMI is currently using the Disappointment Cleaver route for their climbs. Summit Climbs have been successfully reaching the summit on May 12-13th, 13-14th, and 19-20th.

Summit Congratulations!!!

RMI guide John Lucia, on Tuesday May 16th, summit Mount McKinley for the 10th time. Climbing through cloudy conditions, their team made the summit of North America’s highest point (20,320) in clear skies. Congratulations to John and his teammates. Check out John’s climbing resume at RMIGuides.com.

Brenda Walsh, RMI Senior Guide, early in the morning of May 20th, 2006 summited the World’s highest mountain, Mt. Everest (29,035). Brenda and teammates are currently descending from the mountain’s high camps. Check out RMI’s newly announced 2007 climb of Mt. Everest on their website.

Congratulations to both RMI guides who have truly accomplished great and difficult feats.

Fly by Mount Rainier

A friend of Whittaker Mountaineering passed along this 3 minute 19 second video clip to us and we appreciate the awesome footage. We beleive it was taken in July of 2005. Enjoy.
http://chris.pirillo.com/blog/_archives/2005/7/20/1053594.html

Ed Viesturs Joins Whittaker Mountaineering Team

Come climb with Ed Viesturs


CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Last updated: January 19th, 2006 02:40 AM (PST)

If you want to climb with the hottest name in mountaineering, you’ll have to climb with Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
The Ashford-based company signed Ed Viesturs to an exclusivity agreement this week. Viesturs elevated his already lofty climbing celebrity last year when he became the first American to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter (26,246.7 feet) peaks.

The Bainbridge Island resident is writing a book and has been hired to give motivational speeches by organizations such as the Seattle Seahawks.

“My family’s relationship with Ed has been strong for many years, but in a more informal manner,” RMI co-owner Peter Whittaker said. “The purpose of this agreement is to solidify the relationship that we have and set the stage for the direction that RMI plans to take over the next decade.”

Viesturs has a long relationship with the Whittakers. RMI co-owner Lou Whittaker led Viesturs on his first 8,000-meter climb, a 1989 ascent of Nepal’s 28,169-foot Kanchenjunga. In 1990, Jim Whittaker, Lou Whittaker’s twin brother, led Viesturs’ first of six climbs to the summit of Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain. He has guided for RMI since 1982 and has summited Rainier 190 times.

In 2003. Viesturs and Peter Whittaker established Viesturs/Whittaker Climbs, a program that guides outdoor enthusiasts up Mount Rainier in a four-day program. Their 2006 climbs are already booked.

Now that RMI has added international trips to its traditional Rainier and Mount McKinley climbs, Peter Whittaker says Viesturs could lead climbs Antarctica or perhaps Nepal.

“He’s excited about Mount Vinson in Antarctica,” Whittaker said, “and for some twisted reasons he wants to go back to Everest.”

Whittaker says they have yet to schedule Viesturs’ 2006 climbs, but says those booking Rainier climbs could have Viesturs randomly assigned as their guide.

There are no extra charges for climbs with Viesturs. Three-day Rainier climbs are $795.

As part of the contract, Viesturs will offer product recommendation and dispatches from his travels.

Mt. Rainier Winter Expedition Seminar

During the past Winter Expedition Seminar weather was the biggest factor throughout the climb. Winter storms had been moving in and out of the area during Dec. 26th through Jan 4th. The team was able to train in-depth on avalanche awareness and other skills needed to climb on Mt. Rainier and mountains such as Mt. McKinley (Denali).
Due to high avalanche conditions the team was only able to reach an altitude of 7,000 feet. Below is a picture from one of their camps during a snow storm.

Snowy News

The Snow Gods have been kind so far to the Pacific Northwest. There is currently a 75 inch base at Paradise. The snow area is expected to open up this weekend. Mount Tahoma Trails are in great condition for those who want to ski outside of the park. Our first winter seminar will start December 27th, and we will post conditions at Muir and the upper mountain soon after that. The Park service is requiring all vehicles to carry tire chains. Whittaker Mountaineering rents tire chains and snowshoes, tubes, and XC skis

Winter Play areas

It is nice to see snow on the local foothills on this cold and sunny day. We want to update you on conditions in and outside the park. There is a 46 inch base at Paradise right now, and conditions are good for snowshoeing and XC skiing. The sledding area at Paradise is schedule to open on December 22 if there is 6 feet of snow at Paradise. Longmire does not have much snow at this time but things can change in a hurry. If anyone wants update weather and road conditions for inside the park feel free to call us at whittaker mountaineering 800-238-5756.
The Mount Tahoma Trail Association has snow as well. Currently you have to walk about a mile from the parking area on the South side to get to snow, but there is a descent amount on the high trails. The North Side (copper Creek) is schedule to open this coming weekend. To park at both locations you will need a Snow Park Permit which you can purchase at Whittaker Mountaineering. Those who would like to recieve MTTA conditions or hut availability give us a call. We also rent snowshoes, XC skies, Ski Tubes and Tire Chains. We will update the conditions when more snow arrives