Denali Season update

For those who have the desire to climb Denali in the upcoming years, check out a journal from Seth Waterfall, mount guide, who shares his 2007 Denali experience. http://www.rmiguides.com/pdfs/Expedition-Journal_MountMcKinley_Waterfall2.pdf

RMI latest update.

May 2: Summited May 21
May 9: Summited May 23
May 16: Reached 19,600'
May 23: Summited June 12
May 30: Summited June 14

Whittaker Mountaineering has recieved postive remarks about the gear we have sent out this year on Mac. The early season seemed to have some bad weather. We hope for a safe rest of the year in Alaska.

Guide Services on Mt Rainier

Guiding rights - Three services share Muir Route on Rainier for first time
CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Published: June 21st, 2007 01:00 AM
PHOTOS BY JANET JENSEN/THE NEWS TRIBUNE
Mountain Day School students, including, from left, Ashlie Angel and Erica Dohring, get into position at Mount Rainier to learn recovery and ice ax arrest techniques after a fall. Instructors from International Mountain Guides teach the class a day before the students attempt to climb the mountain.

Guides from Rainier Mountaineering Inc., which used to be the only guide service authorized to use the Muir Route up Mount Rainier, lead a group of climbers up the peak.

Eben Reckord, center, teaches students Luke Angel, left, from Colorado, and Lary Catt, right, from California, ice ax technique as part of a school offered by International Mountain Guides for those who wish to climb Mount Rainier.

History was quietly made on the upper slopes of Mount Rainier last month. In the predawn hours of May 13, climbing parties from different guide services passed each other on the popular Muir Route.
The lead guides from International Mountain Guides and Alpine Ascents International exchanged their observations about route and weather conditions, their clients chatted with each other and then they continued climbing.
AAI had decided to turn around because of blizzard conditions, and IMG would soon make the same decision.
“I think things went well,” said Todd Burleson, owner of AAI. “I think the arrangement is going to work well with three guide services on the route.”
May was the first month multiple guide services were allowed on Rainier’s Muir Route. Since 1969, Ashford-based Rainier Mountaineering Inc. was the only company allowed to guide on the route.
RMI is still king of the mountain with permission to climb with 24 guides and clients each day. IMG and AAI each get 12.
The Muir route, on the south side of the mountain, is by far the most popular for climbers. It is easily accessed from the Paradise parking lot, and Camp Muir, above 10,000 feet, offers a convenient overnight stop.
Of the 9,154 registered climbers in 2006, 71.4 percent used the Muir Route.
Alex Van Steen, a senior guide for RMI, expects the three companies to share the route smoothly this summer. However, he won’t be surprised if there is some congestion.
“It’s like putting three coffee shops on the same corner,” Van Steen said.
If you are expecting a heated competition between the companies, think again.
Eric Simonson, co-owner of IMG, says he, Burleson and RMI co-owner Peter Whittaker recently took a helicopter flight together to Camp Muir to map out how they’ll share the camp this year.
He said the men, who have known each other for years, worked together with ease.
“It might get competitive off the mountain,” Burleson said. “But not on the mountain.”
Most of the guides from the three companies have guided together on Rainier or other mountains. In fact, many, including IMG’s owners, once worked at RMI.
“We all know and respect each other,” Burleson said. “We will share information, and it will make things safer for everybody.
“I don’t think we will have companies trying to force their way to the summit when others are turning around. If anything, I think if one turns around the other will, too, because keeping our clients safe is the top priority for all of us.”
The new arrangement will change the face of Camp Muir a bit. RMI’s bunkhouse will be divided between the companies. IMG and AAI will alternate days in the smaller section of the boxy structure.
Additionally, RMI is adding solar panels to light its side of the bunkhouse, and the three companies will set up a temporary structure for the season.
IMG and AAI will never be at Muir at the same time. Instead, they will bring a new twist to climbing the Muir Route.
Instead of training clients the day before the climb, both companies will offer training en route by adding a day to what is a two-day climb with RMI.
After a day of training at Camp Muir, the party will climb 1,000 feet to camp in tents on the Ingraham Flats on the second night. Then, on the third day, they attempt the summit.
“It’s a double-edged sword,” Simonson said. “You don’t have to climb as far on the summit day, and you get more time to get acclimated, but you also have to carry your gear a little farther up the mountain.”
Climbers will likely have to take packs as large as 60 pounds to 11,000 feet. In the past, RMI’s clients carried much lighter packs because they stayed in the bunkhouse and did not have to pack a tent.
Van Steen says RMI isn’t offering a similar climb because its clients traditionally prefer two-day climbs. After a day of training, the clients have a night to tweak their gear and dry out at sea level before starting up the mountain. IMG is also offering a two-day climb with separate training.
“Having that chance to fine-tune things and get a good dinner before doing your marathon is huge,” Van Steen said. “It’s a little more difficult once you’ve already started.
“I think it can be the key to success.”
With one month under their belts, the guide services say things are off to a good start, but the busier summer season is just around the corner.
“I think it will continue to go smoothly,” Van Steen said. “I imagine it will take us the entire summer to figure out what we can do better next year.”
GUIDING THE MUIR ROUTE
Since 1969, Rainier Mountaineering Inc. has been the only guide service on Rainier’s Muir Route – the route used by more than 70 percent of climbers. That changed this month as two more companies were allowed on the route.

RAINIER MOUNTAINEERING INC.
Ashford
Owners: Lou Whittaker, Peter Whittaker, Joe Horiskey
Client-to-guide ratio: 3-to-1 (2-to-1 on other routes)
Price: $805 (two days plus climbing school), $1,109 (three days plus climbing school)
Highlights: The only company to guide the Muir Route before this season. RMI also offers climbs on the Emmons, Kautz and Liberty Ridge routes. RMI has numerous training clinics including a Mount McKinley preparation program. They have guided internationally for two years.
Notable guides
Dave Hahn: He holds the U.S. record with eight summits of Mount Everest; guides internationally for IMG.
Brent Okita: More than 200 Rainier summits.
Craig Van Hoy: More than 350 Rainier summits.
Alex Van Steen: More than 225 Rainier summits and co-author of the first Rainier climbing guide.
Ed Viesturs: The only American to climb the world’s 14 8,000-meter summits.
Peter Whittaker: He has done more than 200 Rainier ascents.
This year: Most climbs are full, and there is a waiting list. RMI will start taking reservations next month for 2008.
Information: 360-569-2227, rmiguides.com
Craig Hill: 253-597-8497
craig.hill@thenewstribune.com

Our Denali gear and Equipment is holding up

Two summits by RMI teams on Denali already in this early season. Whittaker Mountaineering provides retail and rental gear for a lot of those who are attempting to climb Denali. Looks like great reviews on the Purple Haze overboots, Grivel G12 Crampons and the Absolute Zero Parka. We will have a report on the climbs up shortly.

Friends of Whittaker Mountaineering Summit Everest

Congratulations goes out to Casy Grom for his first Mt Everest summit on May 20th. Super Congrats goes out to Dave Hahn for his 9th Mt Everest summit. We appreciate both guys testing and feedback of Whittaker Mountaineering products over the past few years.

Rainier Climbing Season Begins

Whittaker Mountaineering wants to thank Mount Rainier National Park and all its staff for working hard to open the park on May 4th. The Road to Paradise is now open and the climbing season is underway. We are pleased to announce that RMI first climbing team of the Summer 2007 Season summitted a couple of days ago. We wish all climbers a safe and successful season. Let us know if we can help you with your Rainier adventure in any way. Enjoy the Mountain

Whittaker Mountaineering Staff

Article in the Seattle Paper

Whittaker Mountaineering is very fortunate to have climbers like Brent Okita recommending gear and equipment for us to bring in the store. See the article below.
http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/getaways/312883_rainier26.html

New Video Clips on Website

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to release the new gear video clips featuring Ed Viesturs, Melissa Arnot and Peter Whittaker. Take a look and let us know what you think.
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/videos.asp

Mt Rainier Closure will not effect Guided Climbs

For those of you who are using a guide service to climb during the 2007, especially those who have signed up for a trip in May. (The park is expected to open sometime in May) Do not worry about your climb. Guide Services are able to get up to Paradise and begin their ascent there. The Mountain has plenty of snow, and we wish everyone a safe climbing season.

Whittaker Mountaineering Staff

We will post online when the park officially opens

Introducing Jansport Whittaker LR 2007 Pack

We spent a few seasons testing this pack on Rainier, Whittaker Mountaineering believes you will enjoy this pack. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/detail.asp?p=580&c=Backpacks&cat=1&rootid=undefined&root=undefined

Unbound edge and laminated shoulder straps with dual density foam and sternum strap rail for low-friction carrying comfort
GridFit™ easy adjust harness plate fits 17"-19" torso lengths plus 2" shoulder width adjustment suspension
Top-loading main compartment with easy access alternative entry on lower front for quick gear stuffing
Easy access, high mount exterior pocket
HDPE framesheet with dual 6061 tubular stays and soft form helmet recess
3D water bottle pockets with pass-thru gear sleeves
Reinforced side compression straps keep pack close to the body and manage the load
Full vertical internal compression
Reinforced center compression for vertical snowboard carry
Compression-molded back panel and reinforced hipbelt for cushioning comfort

VX07 Sailcloth / 840 Denier Junior Ballistic

5 lbs. / 2.3 kg

5''h x 15''w x 14.5''d

4400 cu in / 72.1L

Rainier Mountain Festival

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to announce the dates of this years Rainier Mountain Festival. We will be having the festival on September 15th and 16th 2007. For more informations visit their website at www.rainierfestival.com

Park Road Construction

I know a lot of people are concerned with the park not being open for the past 3 months as they deal with the flooding and road construction. For those who are climbing with a guide service, there is no need to worry. We will be shuttled up to Paradise no matter what. The park expects the road to re-open sometime in April/May. So everyone can enjoy the park. If you have any further questions feel free to contact Whittaker Mountaineering.

Upcoming Free Events

Whittaker Mountaineering will be providing free beginner Snowshoe and XC skiing Course on the Mount Tahoma Trails. For more information visit this weblink.
http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/events.asp

Enjoy the snow and the mountain.

What's a foot? Does it matter to you?

Whittaker Mountaineering found this article in the local Tacoma News Tribune. Interesting!
Taking the measure of a mountain

CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Eight hours after we stood on the roof of Washington last summer, our guides rewarded us with certificates that read “Mount Rainier, 14,410 feet.”
Aware many others believe the mountain is actually a foot taller, I raised my hand to get the scoop from Alex Van Steen, our lead guide from Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
“Hey, what happened to the extra foot?” I asked. “I’m pretty sure I felt it up there.”
“Nope,” Van Steen said with a smile. “The official height is 14,410 and 13 inches.”
Van Steen isn’t the only person who has his bases covered.
Ashford resident Steve Miller has vanity plates with Rainier’s elevation for his cars. The plates read “14410” on his Toyota pickup and “14411” on his Subaru Forester.
So what’s in a foot?
Most people – including career climbers and the U.S. Geological Survey – don’t really seem to care.
In fact, it doesn’t have official summit elevations for most mountains, including Rainier, said Steve Reiter of the USGS. The 14,410 USGS listing on maps is calculated from the agency’s highest Rainier benchmark, which is at 14,399 feet. A benchmark is a permanent point whose known elevation is part of a national network.
Mount Rainier National Park climbing ranger Mike Gauthier recently made the mistake of saying he didn’t care about the differing elevations during a slide-show presentation.
“Sure enough, some guy raised his hand,” Gauthier said. “It’s a big issue to some people. … It’s the state’s icon. It’s on the license plate.”
That’s precisely why people like Paul White think there should be an agreed-upon official elevation.
“If it was some other mountain, it wouldn’t be that important,” said White, a Lakewood resident. “But it’s our symbol. It’s going to be on the Washington quarter. They wouldn’t have remeasured it if it wasn’t important.”
In fact, it was the remeasurements in 1989 and 1999 for the state and national park’s respective centennials that tacked on the extra foot to the USGS 1956 measurement.
Using Global Positioning Satellites, the Land Surveyors Association of Washington calculated Rainier’s elevation at 14,411.1 in ’89 and 14,411.05 in ’99.
After the measurements, many changed their references for Rainier, but others stuck with the USGS calculation.
The result has been a sometimes humorous, often overlooked discrepancy that has become a curious Rainier footnote.
When two climbing guidebooks to Rainier were published in 1999, the first, written by Van Steen and Fred Beckey, listed the summit at 14,411 feet. A few months later, Gauthier’s version said 14,410.
Eric Simonson says his company, International Mountain Guides, uses 14,411 feet, even though his Web site says 14,410.
“I guess it depends on the day of the week and who you are talking to,” Simonson said.
Even the USGS has one reference to the higher elevation on its Web site, and Reiter says the GPS measurement is likely more accurate.
Wikipdia.com lists both elevations in the same article.
And, for good measure, the Smithsonian lists the elevation at 14,409 feet.
“Which elevation is most accurate?” said Dave Doyle of the National Geodetic Survey. “Well, that’s the stuff graduate degrees are made off.”
NOT OFFICIAL
Reiter says it’s a common misconception that there is a USGS benchmark at the summit of every mountain. In fact, the exact summit elevation isn’t vital to the USGS, he says.
The highest benchmark on Rainier is 14,399 feet, placed in the highest exposed rock outcropping.
“We place the benchmarks at known locations and elevations that are ideal for surveyors,” Reiter said, adding that precise summit elevations often aren’t necessary for making accurate maps.
From these benchmarks, the USGS calculates summit elevations.
Doyle says the USGS’ calculation of Rainier’s summit has a margin of error of plus or minus 5 feet.
“Most people are surprised to learn that quite a few famous peaks like Rainier don’t have official elevations,” Reiter said.
The USGS hasn’t measured any mountains in Washington since the arrival of GPS technology in the late 1970s, although they do use GPS.
Mount Rainier National Park uses 14,410 feet for the elevation because it uses USGS numbers, said park natural resources manager Roger Andrascik.
THE 1956 MEASUREMENT
Before Enumclaw’s Larry Signani led the GPS measurements of Rainier, he got hold of the notes from the USGS’ 1956 measurement.
According to the notes, the summit’s elevation was set based on the average of several triangulation measurements. And because of the margin of error, Signani says the elevation was rounded up as much as 2 feet, to 14,410.
“This is not saying anything negative about past measurements,” Signani said. “This is the best they had at the time.”
GPS: 14,411.05
Rainier was the first mountain measured using GPS technology in 1989. The Land Surveyors of Washington, led by Signani, hauled two suitcase-size GPS receivers to the summit.
For reference, 12 more receivers were placed at known elevations on and around Rainier.
“The more reference sites you use, the more accurate the reading,” Signani said.
In 1999, the surveyors used 16 reference receivers in measuring an elevation 1.5 centimeters shorter than their first measurement.
“Our measurements are accurate within a centimeter,” Signani said. “That’s pretty accurate.”
RIGHT ROUND, FOR THE RECORD
The Smithsonian Institution lists the summit of Rainier at 14,409 feet.
Lee Siebert, the Smithsonian’s volcano data specialist, says the difference is likely a rounding issue.
The Smithsonian uses USGS measurements; however, many USGS maps list Rainier at 4,392 meters. Sure enough, the conversion gives you an elevation of 14,409.4 feet. However, the USGS had already rounded down from about 4,392.2 meters – a difference of about 8 inches.
The North Dakota Space Grant Consortium uses Smithsonian data. However, after being contacted by The News Tribune, the consortium’s content editor – Oregon State University geosciences graduate student Chris Harpel – said the organization plans to switch to 14,410 feet to match the USGS.
Siebert did not indicate if the Smithsonian will change its elevation.
WHERE’S ZERO?
You aren’t going to get college credit for reading this section, but you probably should.
We’ll start with a quiz.
Mount Rainier is 14,411 (or 14,410) feet above what?
A. Mean sea level.
B. The geoid.
C. The reference ellipsoid.
If you said A or B you are correct. If you said C, you are off by 63.1 feet.
The USGS has always used height above sea level for its elevations, and as a result that has become the popular reference.
However, because the ocean’s surface rises and falls depending upon gravitational pull, sea level differs by location, Reiter said. And because most mountains don’t rise directly from the sea, scientists created a reference called the geoid, which extends mean sea level over the continents.
GPS technology measures height above another imagined Earth surface – the reference ellipsoid.
This is a smooth egg-shaped reference roughly Earth’s size and figure. In some places, the ellipsoid is below mean sea level, and in others, like the United States, it is above. GPS elevation is usually converted to feet above sea level.
At Mount Rainier, the ellipsoid is 63.1 feet above mean sea level, according to USGS records, so you would add that figure to the GPS measurement.
“Basically determining the elevation comes down to ‘Where is zero?’” Reiter said. “And can you even determine where zero is.”
Not confusing enough? For extra credit, check out the National Geodetic Survey’s explanation at www.ngs.noaa.gov/GEOID.
UPS AND DOWNS
The elevation of Mount Rainier’s summit changes all the time.
Because there is no exposed rock at Rainier’s highest point, the summit rises and falls depending on the temperature, snowfall and summit traffic.
“Depending on if it’s summer or winter, it fluctuates a few feet,” said Peter Whittaker, RMI’s CEO. “What I know for sure is it’s a darn long way up there.”
For those who make a living on the mountain, the summit seemed especially low this summer.
“I think it was about a foot lower than normal this year because it was so warm,” said Gauthier, Mount Rainier National Park’s lead climbing ranger. “I even saw a small crevasse near the summit for the first time.”
HOME MEASUREMENTS
So, maybe you’re thinking, “I have a GPS handset; why don’t I just hike up there and put an end to the debate?”
Well, it’s not that simple.
Standing on the summit last year, I got a reading that wasn’t even close. After adding my geoid height (the difference between mean sea level and the ellipsoid), my handset said 14,151 feet above sea level.
“That doesn’t surprise me,” Signani said. “Those little handheld receivers only have an accuracy within about 30 meters (981/2 feet) when you are measuring elevation. Plus, it has no reference points like we do when we use survey quality GPS, so that’s going to make it even less accurate.”
How about an altimeter?
“Altimeters are unreliable, too, because they are based on barometric pressure,” Signani said. “They are effected by temperature and humidity, so your reading will be different day to day.”
THE FUTURE
Soon surveyors in Washington will be able to measure Rainier – and everything else in the state – even more accurately.
The state is installing a web of continuously running GPS stations called the Washington State Reference Network.
“This will revolutionize the way we determine elevations,” Signani said. “It allows for centimeter positioning. This is the measurement future for Washington.”
TNT STYLE
It wouldn’t be fair to point out the inconsistencies of others without taking a shot at ourselves.
The News Tribune has bounced between both elevations since the 1999 GPS measurement. We used 14,411 feet in stories last summer, but we’ve used the shorter height in stories as recently as last month. We don’t have an official elevation in our local stylebook.
Hardly the consistency you’d expect from an organization that not only prides itself on accuracy but also has the mountain in its logo.
However, after researching this story, we’ve decided to settle on 14,411 feet as our official style.
“The first rule of journalism is accuracy. It’s also the second rule. And the third,” said News Tribune editing team leader Jim Kresse. “It just makes sense to go with the survey that uses the latest technologies and most recent measurements that give the most accurate reading.”
Craig Hill: 253-597-8497
craig.hill@thenewstribune.com
THE EVER-CHANGING ELEVATION
Year, Elevation, Credit, Method
1841 12,333 Lt. Charles Wilkes Triangulation
1879 14,444 James Smyth Lawson Barometer
1888 14,524 E.S. Ingraham Barometer
1896 14,519 USGS Barometer
1897 14,528 Edgar McClure Barometer
1902 14,363 USGS Barometer
1905 14,394 Alexander McAdie Barometer
1914 14,408 USGS Triangulation
1956 14,410 USGS Triangulation
1989 14,411.1 LSAW GPS
1999 14,411.05 LSAW GPS
SOURCES: National Park Service and Land Surveyors of Washington

Rainy Days at Mount Rainier

Heavy rain hit Mt Rainier earlier this week. Paradise recorded 18 inches of rain in a 36 hour period. Yes, Whittaker Mountaineering stayed dried, but wet indeed. Some of the roads throughout the park have been washed out. The park is currently closed to the public. We will continue to monitor the floods and updates in the future.

Upcoming Posts

Deep breathe,
The 2006 climbing season is officially over and it was a safe and succesfull season. As we sit here at the base of Mt. Rainier now waiting for snow to fall in tree tops above, we begin to plan for 2007. There will be a lot of exciting changes for the upcoming year and we look foward to sharing those with you on this blog on a more regular basis. In then next few weeks look foward to new information on Denali, our new rental gear will be selected and finalized by tomorrow, and we will be excited to share with you what new items will be in our rental fleet. New programs will be offered on Mount Rainier along with other mountain around the world. Our Holiday sale will start on November 15th. We are looking forward to a good winter here at Whittaker Mountaineering.

Climbing Routes on Mt. Rainier

The early season climbs on Mount Rainier saw many ascents via the Disappointment Cleaver. This route, the DC, is usually climbed later in the summer season. However, since there was little snow during the end of the winter season, the Ingraham Direct had been unnavigatable until recently. The past three weeks of low pressure systems in the Northwest have created conditions that have made navigation of the Direct route possible. Currently both the DC and the Direct route have been both ascended and descended.

Mount Rainier Conditions

The climbing route on Mt. Rainier is typical for this time of the year. Although snow is covering most of the mountain, snowshoes have not been necessary for the approach to Camp Muir at 10,000 feet. RMI is currently using the Disappointment Cleaver route for their climbs. Summit Climbs have been successfully reaching the summit on May 12-13th, 13-14th, and 19-20th.

Summit Congratulations!!!

RMI guide John Lucia, on Tuesday May 16th, summit Mount McKinley for the 10th time. Climbing through cloudy conditions, their team made the summit of North America’s highest point (20,320) in clear skies. Congratulations to John and his teammates. Check out John’s climbing resume at RMIGuides.com.

Brenda Walsh, RMI Senior Guide, early in the morning of May 20th, 2006 summited the World’s highest mountain, Mt. Everest (29,035). Brenda and teammates are currently descending from the mountain’s high camps. Check out RMI’s newly announced 2007 climb of Mt. Everest on their website.

Congratulations to both RMI guides who have truly accomplished great and difficult feats.

Fly by Mount Rainier

A friend of Whittaker Mountaineering passed along this 3 minute 19 second video clip to us and we appreciate the awesome footage. We beleive it was taken in July of 2005. Enjoy.
http://chris.pirillo.com/blog/_archives/2005/7/20/1053594.html

Ed Viesturs Joins Whittaker Mountaineering Team

Come climb with Ed Viesturs


CRAIG HILL; The News Tribune
Last updated: January 19th, 2006 02:40 AM (PST)

If you want to climb with the hottest name in mountaineering, you’ll have to climb with Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
The Ashford-based company signed Ed Viesturs to an exclusivity agreement this week. Viesturs elevated his already lofty climbing celebrity last year when he became the first American to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter (26,246.7 feet) peaks.

The Bainbridge Island resident is writing a book and has been hired to give motivational speeches by organizations such as the Seattle Seahawks.

“My family’s relationship with Ed has been strong for many years, but in a more informal manner,” RMI co-owner Peter Whittaker said. “The purpose of this agreement is to solidify the relationship that we have and set the stage for the direction that RMI plans to take over the next decade.”

Viesturs has a long relationship with the Whittakers. RMI co-owner Lou Whittaker led Viesturs on his first 8,000-meter climb, a 1989 ascent of Nepal’s 28,169-foot Kanchenjunga. In 1990, Jim Whittaker, Lou Whittaker’s twin brother, led Viesturs’ first of six climbs to the summit of Mount Everest, the world’s tallest mountain. He has guided for RMI since 1982 and has summited Rainier 190 times.

In 2003. Viesturs and Peter Whittaker established Viesturs/Whittaker Climbs, a program that guides outdoor enthusiasts up Mount Rainier in a four-day program. Their 2006 climbs are already booked.

Now that RMI has added international trips to its traditional Rainier and Mount McKinley climbs, Peter Whittaker says Viesturs could lead climbs Antarctica or perhaps Nepal.

“He’s excited about Mount Vinson in Antarctica,” Whittaker said, “and for some twisted reasons he wants to go back to Everest.”

Whittaker says they have yet to schedule Viesturs’ 2006 climbs, but says those booking Rainier climbs could have Viesturs randomly assigned as their guide.

There are no extra charges for climbs with Viesturs. Three-day Rainier climbs are $795.

As part of the contract, Viesturs will offer product recommendation and dispatches from his travels.