Another Perfect Day On Rainier!

RMI climbers summited this morning around 6:30am with a bit of haze and very little wind!  RMI guide, Tyler Reid said it was another perfect day on the mountain.  Around 12:30 this morning, the climbers woke up and began to prepare for their alpine start.  Tyler said there was a cloud cap on the summit but otherwise a starry sky and a partial moon to light their way.  It was another day of great "summer snow" on the upper mountain - not too firm and not too soft.  As the climbers made their way across the Ingraham Glacier and up the Disappointment Cleaver, Tyler said the cloud cap on the summit dissolved.  With a low cloud layer way down in the valleys below creating a sort of "mystical lake" effect, and a bit of haze across the sky, everyone reached the top of Rainier around 6:30am!  They spent a while on top, enjoying the views and their success before heading down as the mountain began to heat up as the day grew longer.  With warm weather on the docket, things are starting to melt out fast - but for now, the majority of the climb is snow covered.  The trip down the Muir Snowfield this afternoon was mushy in the hot sun and not very boot ski-able.  Congratulations, climbers! Nice work up there today!

Camp Patriot Climb - July 11th

RMI guide, Eryka Thorley gave us a trip report of her climb with Camp Patriot...

Camp Patriot Climb July 11^th 2010

The group arrived at Base Camp in Ashford on Sunday the 10^th of July ready for adventure!  They spread all of their gear out in the front lawn of RMI and prepared themselves for the next four days on Mount Rainier.  The group consisted of four veterans of combat during Iraq and Afghanistan along with 14 others including guides, Mystery Ranch Backpack representatives and other highly skilled supporters for the climb.  The veterans consisted of Navy Corpsman 3rd Class Petty Officer Kevin Ivory, Navy Seal Senior Chief Mike Day, Navy Seal Bryan Stuart and Navy Seal Lieutenant Jason Redman.

After packing our “rucks” with all the gear needed for the next few days of mountain life, the group headed to Paradise on the morning of Sunday the 11^th to begin the 2010 Camp Patriot Climb.  In Paradise the group was greeted by numerous supporters including family and friends as well as well as a large group of military personnel from nearby Fort Lewis that were going to be ferrying much appreciated gear for the group to Camp Muir.

The four and a half mile and almost 5,000 vertical feet excursion to Camp Muir was no trouble for the Navy Seal Veterans.  With full sunshine and a slight breeze the group cruised along the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir arriving in around six hours time.  Once  at Camp Muir the group settled quickly into tent life on the Muir Ridge.  

The following day, Monday the 12^th, Anne Keller, Art Rausch, Curtiss Fawley, and Daniel Zokaites led the group through mountaineering school.  Skills discussed included self-arrest, cramponing and team rope travel.  These skills would all be practiced and used on the mountain in the days to follow.

On Tuesday morning the 13^th the group headed out to utilize these skills and practice ice climbing along a serac on the Cowlitz Glacier below Camp Muir.  The previous plan had been to push for the summit on early Tuesday morning but the weather had other ideas for the group so instead we enjoyed a great day of ice climbing.  

The team had an early wake up call of 10:30pm on the night of the 13^th.  After a breakfast of granola and oatmeal the crew was walking across the Cowlitz Glacier by 12:00.  The winds had finally slowed down from the previous two days and the temperatures were comfortably in the mid 20’s.  The first stretch of the climb to the Ingraham Flats (11,000 feet) was smooth and fast.  At our first 15 minute “maintenance break” at the Flats, climber and astronaut Scott Parazynski, a space explorer of five times and Everest climber was bombarded with questions regarding the beautiful starry scene above us.  

Due to the high winds throughout the previous two days there had been many climbing parties waiting for a break in the weather along with our team so the Disappointment Cleaver, the next stretch of the climb, was busy with traffic.  We efficiently followed the pack up the route and stopped for our second break at the top of the Cleaver (12,300 feet). Just above this point we lost the first and only member of our group to exhaustion.  After spinning the oldest (68 years old) member of the team back towards Camp Muir the group pressed onward and upward.  The weather remained consistent with slight winds, temperatures in the 10’s to 20’s with great route conditions.  The trail was easy to follow with the majority of the route being styrofoam snow and easy to walk along in crampons.  

After the third break the route had to be slightly changed due to a fast moving crack around 13,600 feet.  From this point the climbing was direct and speedy to the crater rim.  

The group reached the crater rim at 6:30am on Wednesday the 14^th of July. All four of the veterans successfully charged to the summit of Mount Rainier and the excitement and sense of accomplishment was group wide.  The summit was sunny and the visibility was perfect.  We could see all of the major cascade volcanoes as well as a clear view of Seattle and the ocean.  

After spending an hour and half on top of the crater the group began the descent back to Camp Muir.  The descent many times is the most challenging aspect of climbing and this descent was no different.  Yet the energy of the group remained strong and we returned back to Camp Muir at 10:00am to rest and refuel for the remaining hike back to Paradise and eventually the celebratory BBQ and awards back at RMI Basecamp.    

The Camp Patriot climb of 2010 was an incredible experience for all who partook.  It was humbling to hear the stories of these veterans survival and recovery but the most impressive of this experience was to be surrounded by their passions for life.  These veterans climbed Mount Rainier for the cause of developing a place where injured soldiers can retreat for healing and peace.  Let us always remember the sacrifices these soldiers have made for our freedom and where possible let us continue creating space and adventures like Mount Rainier and Camp Patriot where they can retreat to upon return home.  Thank you Kevin, Bryan, Mike and Jay.  Climb on soldiers!  

A Great Day For Climbing Rainier...

Everyone stood on top of Rainier on this windless, perfect morning! RMI guide, Seth Waterfall said the climb up to Muir yesterday was perfect - not too hot and not too cold.  90% of the the entire climb is still on snow right now, but with this hot weather things are starting to melt out fast!  The teams woke up around 11pm last night and were climbing by 12:30am.  Seth said they had to circumnavigate around several crevasses on their way to the Disappointment Cleaver.  The Cleaver is still mostly snow covered, which makes for really nice, easy climbing.  The route above the Cleaver is still very direct and fast with few crevasses.  Crunchy snow made for easy walking in crampons all day and with high, overcast clouds the snow remained crunchy throughout the day.  On top, Seth said there was zero wind - which is a lot different compared to recent trips - *see Ed Viesturs' video on the summit in the previous post!  Although there were high clouds in the sky, they actually were favorable for the climbers as the snow did not get too soft and slushy all day.  The descent back to Paradise was "perfect" - with about 2 inches of soft snow over the top of a firm base.  Another easy-on-the-knees descent for everyone!  

Congratulations, climbers!

Mount Rainier Summit Nuke

Can you tell what he's saying?

American Lung Association - Climb For Clean Air

Take a look at these killer photos taken by RMI guide, Win Whittaker on the climb this morning!  Congratulations, climbers from the Climb for Clean Air with the American Lung Association! 

 

A gorgeous day on Rainier today!  After a successful summit this morning, the Climb for Clean air is back up at Paradise for a celebration dinner!

Breezy & Sunny On Rainier!

The climb was on top of Rainier early this morning with a breeze and clear skies!  Another day of good weather, awesome snow for climbing and a fast route to the top!

RMI guide, Mike Uchal said the Muir Snowfield was hot and sunny yesterday for their trip to Muir.  There was a slight breeze which made for perfect hiking!  Around 1 o'clock this morning, the climbs began their climb with a starlit sky above.  Mike said the wind was blowing when they first left Muir and it picked up upon reaching the top of Cathedral Gap and gaining the Ingraham Flats.  The traverse onto the Cleaver is solid right now and there is a phenomenal route up the shoulder of the Cleaver.  He said it's fast and easy!  On the upper mountain the route traverses South around a few opening crevasses and back up and around to the Crater.  With nice weather, a bit of a breeze and clear skies the climb reached the top of the mountain and enjoyed awesome views.  The descent was a little slushy but the walking was really good.  The Muir Snowfield was great this afternoon with soft snow - Mike said the descent today was easy on the knees!

Everyone is celebrating their success back here at Basecamp... Congratulations, everyone!

A Bluebird Day & Great Success on Rainier!

Today was a beautiful day to be on top of Rainier!  The summit climb, the Camp Patriot climb and the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Emmons all reached the top this morning! 

The climbs went to bed last night with a stiff breeze still blowing through Camp Muir; however, by the time they woke up to begin their climb, the winds had died down.  RMI guide, Patrick Erley said the strong crew of climbers made their way uphill in a light wind and crystal clear skies on firm snow.  The route continues to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver and is still fast and direct with only a few, small crevasse step-overs.  On the summit the teams enjoyed great views in all directions before heading back down.  On the descent, the guides shoveled out the route on the shoulder of the Cleaver.  Patrick said the Muir Snowfield was in great shape, as it's becoming more firm and the walking is getting better and better with less post-holing as in the past few weeks. 

A great day on Rainier today!  Stay tuned, we'll have photos and a trip report to share soon - but right now, everyone is relaxing in the sun and enjoying their hard earned summit! Congratulations, climbers!

Blown Away...

Although today's summit climb didn't reach the top of Rainier, everyone on the climb is relaxing here at Basecamp in high spirits!  

The 4-day climb began with great weather and clear views of Rainier on their snow school up in Paradise.  Yesterday, the weather deteriorated and they were greeted with a misty fog for the majority of their climb up to Muir.  RMI guide, Chad Peele said they popped out of the fog and into the warm sunshine around 8000' on the Snowfield.  Upon retreating to bed early that evening, the winds at Camp Muir began to increase.  Chad said the winds were rocking Muir all night - making it difficult to sleep.  When the climbers awoke to begin their summit climb, they found that the winds had not dissipated at all.  They began their journey across the Cowlitz glacier and up Cathedral Gap with the relentless wind knocking climbers and guides off the trail.  Once they arrived at their first break at 11,200' on the Ingraham Flats, they held a group discussion and ultimately everyone came to the conclusion that the conditions were extremely difficult and it was unsafe to continue.  They quickly retreated back to Camp Muir where they were temporarily housed by shelter out of the wind before heading down the Muir Snowfield back to Paradise.  Chad said the Muir Snowfield was in great shape for their descent, as it was early enough in the day that the snow was still firm instead of slushy.  

Overall, it was a great mountain adventure and everyone is psyched on their experience!

July 11 Summit Climb Photos

RMI guide, Jason Thompson took some beautiful photos on the July 8 - 11 summit climb...

[Check out more of Jason's photography from the mountains here!]

A Crowded Summer Day on Rainier!

Today the Wilderness Ventures climb reached the top of Rainier around 7am!  RMI guide, Lindsay Mann said the climb left Muir on this beautiful, warm morning around 12:15.  They crossed the Cowlitz Glacier and traversed over onto the Cleaver with light winds and slushy snow.  Lindsay said it was extremely busy on the mountain today - with the entire trail traced out in headlamps.  Around High Break, the winds became more steady for the remainder of the climb.  On the summit, the climbers enjoyed their hard earned 360 degree views of the world down below!  It was a perfect morning - with no clouds and only a mild wind.  It began to heat up on the descent back to Muir and the snow became a bit slushier.  The Muir Snowfield was super crowded and the snow was super slushy this afternoon - but Lindsay said it made for great glissading and boot skiing!  Another awesome, sunny day on Rainier and it looks like summer is finally here to stay!

Congratulations, everyone! 

Another Hot Day on Rainier!

 The climb summited this morning with a few clouds in the sky, but more warm weather in the forecast!  When I asked RMI guide, Linden Mallory how his climb was today, he responded: Hot. That seems to be the trend lately...

Linden said the climbs left Camp Muir early, around 12:30am.  There were a few high clouds, so no stars in the sky - but a nice morning for climbing nonetheless.  As the climb gained elevation throughout the morning they encountered some of the clouds and experienced some blowing snow and groppel.  Despite the slightly inclement weather, the climbers were able to enjoy an awesome sunrise with the storm clouds being illuminated.  Once on the summit around 6:15 this morning the climbers walked over to Columbia Crest and enjoyed great views down below!  Upon descending back to Muir, the mountain began to heat up and the snow became a little punchy. It was another really hot day on the Muir Snowfield with soft snow, but easy, quick walking.  This excellent weather drew a huge crowd to both the Snowfield and Paradise today!

RMI guide, Zeb Blais took some awesome photos on the climb this morning! See more photos and a SPOT Map

(Thanks, Zeb!)

Be sure to check out the SPOT Map and Photos from the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Kautz, July 2- 7. 

(Photos: RMI guide, Eric Frank)

Beautiful, Perfect, Summer Weather on Rainier!

A beautiful, summer morning greeted the climbers at the top of Rainier early this morning!  Today was the second day the climbs are ascending via the Disappointment Cleaver and RMI guide, Mike Uchal said it's in fast, direct and in great shape right now!  The climb left Muir Ridge around 1:30 this morning and crossed the Cowlitz Glacier and traversed onto the Cleaver on soft snow; with freezing levels right around 14,000' feet, the snow doesn't get a chance to re-freeze at night.  Above the Cleaver, there are a few opening crevasses that require small step-overs, but nothing to worry about.  Mike said the switchbacks taking climbers to the upper mountain are well-marked and well-traveled.  On top, the climb enjoyed spectacular, perfect conditions on this "absolutely perfect morning"!  Very little wind, crystal clear skies and moderate temperatures!  They didn't run into warmed up, slushy snow until they were descending the Cleaver.  With high temperatures, the remainder of the descent was in slushy, but good snow.  The Muir Snowfield was particularly hot today with absolutely no breeze to cool off the climbers.

Take a look at some beautiful photos from Mike (Thanks, Mike!):

Climbers taking a break at sunrise

Looking down at Little Tahoma

The climbers on top!

Congratulations, everyone!

The Last Day On The Ingraham Direct

The summit climb reached the summit just after 7am on this beautiful summer day!  A big change in the weather is creating big changes on the mountain.  With a cold, wintery past few months, we're now experiencing warmer than usual temperatures.  The teams left a breezy Camp Muir around 2am and made their way across the Cowlitz Glacier with a starry sky and nice, firm snow.  RMI guide, Mike Hinckley said the wind dissapated while they were crossing the Cowlitz and making their way up Cathedral Gap.  While ascending the Ingraham Headwall, the climbers enjoyed a beautiful sunrise and soon, the sun began to heat up the mountain.  With perfect, clear weather on the summit most folks made the trip across the summit crater and up to the true summit.  After enjoying some time on top, the climb descended in the softening snow.  When they arrived back at the ladder spanning a crevasse around 11,700', the climbs noticed that things had been melting out in the heat throughout the morning.  After everyone crossed the crevasse, the guides pulled the ladder marking the end of the the Ingraham Direct route for this season.  Back at Muir, it became really hot and the climb went down the snowfield in the blazing, hot sun and slushy, but manageable snow. 

Congratulations, climbers!

A Summer Summit & Route Changes

RMI teams summited Rainier this morning with gorgeous, clear, blue skies!  It looks like summer has finally arrived in the Pacific Northwest! With the sunshine, we're also experiencing super high temperatures, which will likely cause some changes on the mountain.  RMI guide, Erik Endert said the climbs are heading up the Summer Route on the way to Camp Muir because vegetation is beginning to show in places.  He said this new route is well wanded and all travelers up to Muir are encouraged to follow the new route to help preserve the vegetation.  The climb popped out above the clouds yesterday around 8,000' and had clear skies for the remainder of their trip.  Early this morning, with a clear starlit sky, the climbers began their ascent across the Cowlitz Glacier and up Cathedral Gap on frozen snow, which made for good walking.  Today, the climb went up the Ingraham Direct route - as the opening crevasses are still cross-able and the route is still passable.  Erik said the route up the Disappointment Cleaver has been put in, but the climb will likely try for a couple more trips up the Ingraham.  The ladder over the crevasse around 11,700' will be too big soon and this will force the climbs onto the Cleaver.  The 4-Day Summit Climb and the Expedition Skills Seminar on the Kautz route both reached the summit around 7am!  With high temperatures in the forecast, the climb was quick to retreat downhill before the sun warmed the snow too much.  The entire walk down to Paradise from Camp Muir was in sloppy, slushy snow. 

Congratulations, everyone!

A Gusty Day on Rainier!

 Today's climb was on the top of Rainier for only a few minutes due to very gusty winds.  RMI guide, Brent Okita said the wind made for a challenging climb, but all the climbers did really well despite the harsh conditions!  Yesterday, the climb left Paradise in a slight drizzle - they entered the cloud layer and remained in the white mist until about 9000'.  Climbs are no longer ascending the Winter Route up to Panorama Point - they are now on the Summer Route that diverts around Pan Face instead of climbing straight up it.  After the climb ascended much of the Snowfield, they popped out above the clouds and enjoyed bright, blue skies for the remainder of their climb to Camp Muir.  Although they were finally in the sun, the weather at Camp Muir was a bit temperamental with extremely high gusting winds.  When the climbers woke up for their alpine start, the gusts had died down and they began their ascent around 1:30 am with a starlit sky above.  Conditions became more difficult at Cathedral Gap up to the Ingraham Flats - people were getting tossed occasionally by the gusting wind.  The ladder spanning an opening crevasse just above the Ingraham Flats was especially tough today with climber's balance being thrown off by the wind.  Brent said everyone did an awesome job in that difficult situation! They arrived at the top of the Disappointment Cleaver at dawn and continued to climb in the wind.  The route remains straightforward but the winds created a demanding day for everyone. The teams didn't stay long on the summit - they were happy to retreat to less intense weather.  Upon descending, the winds died down and once back at Muir they were happy to experience calm weather.  Overall, a successful day on the mountain - and the weather is only improving! Congratulations, climbers!

Take a look at RMI guide, Eric Frank's trip report from his June 26 - 29 Summit Climb!

Great Weather, Great Route

Today's summit climb had excellent weather and conditions for their ascent to the top of Rainier!  RMI guide, Mike Tomlinson gave us the rundown from his climb:

The teams departed Muir around 1:30 this morning with clear skies above.  Mike said it was a calm morning on the mountain; unlike the past few days of windy weather.  Upon arriving at the Ingraham Flats, the teams were greeted by a bit colder temperatures and little bit more of a breeze.  With it being a holiday weekend, the route was a little crowded, creating a minor traffic jam.  There is still an exciting ladder over a crevasse around 11,700' and a few smaller, easy crevasse step-overs higher on the mountain.  Mike said the snow was great for the climb; firm, with a solid track in place.  The climbers had crystal clear views in all directions from the tippy top!  A great reward for all of their hard work!  Mike said there was a cloud deck between 8,000' and 10,000' - so all of the other major peaks were visible from the top.  Unlike the past few days, the Muir Snowfield was in good shape.  The snow was still a bit slushy, but it's not as deep - so walking is a bit easier!  Congratulations, climbers!

Be sure to take a look at RMI guide, Mark Falender's full trip report from his 4-Day Summit Climb, June 27 - 30. 

A Break in the Weather

The RMI climb was on top of Rainier this morning around 7:15!  Weather had improved over night and the teams were able to summit in decent weather.  RMI guide, Tyler Jones said the climb woke up at Camp Muir around midnight to marginal temperatures, light snow and a moderate breeze.  They departed Muir around 2am and as they crossed the Cowlitz Glacier the weather improved even more as the clouds opened up and the wind died down.  The climbers were able to enjoy a beautiful sunrise at the top of the Disappointment Cleaver.  The upper route is in great shape - Tyler said it was in as nice of shape as you could ask for - firm snow and a solid boot pack in place.  After a quick 5 hours of traveling uphill, the climb reached the top with decent, but hazy visibility.  They spent an hour on top before beginning their descent back to Muir - en route the teams spotted a small ice fall near the route.   Today, the Muir Snowfield had firm, easy-walking snow until about 8,000'.  Below that, the climb was back in the mist of the lower cloud layer and descending on soupy snow.  


Congratulations, climbers! 

A Winter Day on Rainier

Rainier felt a bit like winter today.  The RMI climbs turned back shy of the summit, around 13,300' this morning due to inclement weather.  Yesterday, the climbs ascended to Camp Muir in beautiful weather - blue skies and warm temperatures.  RMI guide, Win Whittaker said the snowfield was in great shape with firm snow and a well-traveled boot pack to Muir.  The snow is beginning to melt out in Paradise and the climbs will soon be forced to move over to the summer route to Muir instead of heading straight up Pan Face to Panorama Point.  Over night, a winter storm blew in and the climbers awoke to snow falling at Camp Muir.  They left Muir in heavy snow with the wind blowing around 40 mph.  The route is still on the Ingraham Direct and continues to be fast and straightforward.  There is one ladder in place over a crevasse around 11,700'.  Climbing with very little visibility and in high winds, forced the guides to make the decision to turn around short of the summit.  Win said that upon arriving back at the Ingraham Flats (11,200') from their high point they found at least 3 inches of fresh snow!  He said it was a winter storm up there!  With a freezing level of about 6,500', the climbers descended in snow until they reached Pebble Creek and completed their descent back to Paradise in the rain.

Hopefully our summer weather will return soon!

Calm as a Cucumber

Today was yet another great day on Rainier!  With more great weather today, the climb reached the summit around 7:10 this morning.  RMI guide, Mike Tomlinson reported that the teams began their ascent around 1:15am with a perfectly clear sky and full moon illuminating the snow covered mountain.  Mike said the temperature was mild and it was "calm as a cucumber" when they left Camp Muir.  The freezing level was high today - around 12000' - so the snow was not particularly firm even in the wee hours of the morning.  Mike said there are a couple exciting snow bridges around 11400' and 11600' along the route.  Once on top, climbers experienced a bit of wind, around 30 mph but great views all around.  Upon descending the route, everyone had awesome views of other peaks poking through a marine cloud layer around 7000'.  The teams were able to glissade most of the Muir Snowfield today, making the descent not only easier but faster as well!

Congratulations on reaching the top today everyone!

A Summer Summit

The June 23 - 26 summit climb summited this morning around 7:30!  Everyone on the climb made it to the top on this gorgeous, summer day!

RMI guide, Eryka Thorley said they left Camp Muir this morning with a full moon in the sky to brighten their climb. The snow had firmed up just enough for great climbing over night and there was light wind on an otherwise warm morning on Rainier.  There are a couple of crevasses starting to open high on the route that teams are avoiding.  While the route continues to be in stellar shape, Eryka says that there was a bit of a traffic jam on the upper mountain today.  With this awesome weather that we've had, it's no wonder everyone was trying to summit today!  On top, the climbers had fantastic views in all directions with a low cloud layer sitting in the Ashford valley.  After a quick stop at Camp Muir on their way back down, the climb traveled down the Muir Snowfield.  Eryka said that up high on the Snowfield the snow was punchy and slushy. Climbers were post-holing and traveling downhill was a little difficult; however, as they lost more and more elevation the snow conditions changed to corn snow and the walking became  much easier.  

Another great day on Rainier - Congratulations on the summit everyone!