May 21-24th Climb Report

The climb just returned to Ashford and I had a chance to catch up with RMI guide, Chris Bamer to get some route beta. After a failed attempt at making pancakes, the climb departed Camp Muir around 2:20am and ascended the Ingraham Direct. With a nice, direct route in place, it took the team about 5 and a half hours to reach the crater rim. Once on top, they found the summit register frozen together from the recent stormy weather! Chris said they had awesome weather today - clear skies, little wind and lots of sun! Although it warmed up throughout the day, Chris said that when they were descending, the weather started to deteriorate a little - it got really cold and the wind picked up creating spin drifts. It looks like our break it the weather is just about over - the forecast for the next few days doesn't look as good as today!

Be sure to check out RMI guide, Win Whittaker's photos from today in the previous post!

Another successful summit of Rainier!

The RMI May 21-24th, 4-day summit climb reached the top of Mount Rainier this morning around 7:45! They had perfect weather for their summit day! The team reported blue skies, warm weather and no wind on the mountain! That's a huge change from the past few days...

RMI guide, Win Whittaker sent us some photos along the way:

7PM - May 23 - Camp Muir


Camp Muir - Looking south to Mount Adams


The sunrise en route to the summit this morning - May 24th


RMI climbers at a rest break high on the mountain...almost there!


The summit of Rainier! What a perfect day!!

Congratulations everyone! And thanks for the photos, Win!

A Week of Summits!

It's been a big week for RMI climbers around the world! Yesterday, RMI's first McKinley climb of the 2010 season reached the summit! The team, led by guide, Mike Walters is currently on their way down the mountain. Read all of the climbs' dispatches here.

This morning, RMI guide Melissa Arnot stood on the summit of Mount Everest for her third time! Waiting for the weather to improve, Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker are holding at Camp 4 on Everest. Follow their progress, as well as Melissa's descent here.

RMI is 3 for 3 this year on Rainier summits - with the 3rd summit of the summer season this morning around 10AM!

Congratulations everyone!

May 22nd Climbing School

Today's climbing school just arrived back in Ashford. RMI guide, Win Whittaker said it was snowing most of the day at Paradise! Although visibility wasn't the greatest, he said it was great that they didn't get rained on. He estimated 6 inches of new snow on top of a consolidated crust - and his group of climbers were post-holing a little bit. Stay tuned for route conditions on the mountain!

May 21st Snow School

Today's snow school just back back from the mountain! RMI Guides Katy Laveck and Solveig Garhart taught school about 20 minutes outside of Paradise in Edith Creek Basin. They encountered a "spring mix" of rain and snow throughout the day. With low freezing levels over the past few days, Paradise had a fresh blanket of soft, unconsolidated snow creating a bit of a Winter Wonderland. Solveig said it was perfect for practicing plunge stepping! Let's hope for some sunshine in the forecast!

Camp Muir Expedition Skills Seminar May 16-21

We just got word that the RMI Expedition Skills Seminar has reached the summit! They radioed down around 8:15 this morning to let Basecamp know they were at the crater rim! Congratulations everyone! Later this week we'll have a full trip report, including route conditions, from one of the guides on the climb.

May 12-16 Summit Climb Overview

The climb that summited Rainier yesterday morning has arrived back at Basecamp just in time for the sunny, warm weather to turn into rain. I had a chance to chat with RMI guide Andy Bond about their climb and the conditions on the mountain.

The route to Muir is already kicked in pretty well. Above Muir, the team was able to climb the Ingraham Direct route - heading up the Ingraham headwall with no long traverse over to the Disappointment Cleaver. Andy said they had good snow conditions with no post-holing or icy sections. Since it's early season, most of the crevasses on the upper mountain are still filled in, but he said there were still a few crevasse step-overs along the route. "As it storms, the mountain continues to heal itself...hopefully we can stay on this route for a while," says Andy. It took the team 6 hours to ascend to the summit, taking breaks at the Ingraham Flats, above the Cleaver and at 13,500 feet. At about 12,000 feet and the rest of the way to the summit, the wind picked up a bit but Andy says it was a great day to be on the top! 3 hours after departing the summit they were back at Muir. Today, the team was able to give their knees a break on the way down the Muir Snowfield by glissading on the snow! Congratulaions everyone!

Tomorrow morning an RMI Expedition Skills Seminar heads up to Muir to spend the week training and ultimately climbing the mountain! We'll keep you posted on their trip!

The first climb of the season summits!

We just got word that the first RMI climb of the season has reached the summit! Congratulations! At 10:38am the team, led by senior, veteran guide Brent Okita, left the summit and is en route to Camp Muir. We'll keep you updated on their expected arrival back to Rainier Basecamp!

RMI's First Climbing School of the Season!

The summer climbing season is officially underway! The first program of the season is a 5-day summit climb. Today was climbing school! The nice thing about an early season climb is that the group doesn't need to travel very far to get to a training area. RMI guide Kel Rossiter said they only had to walk about 15 minutes out of the Paradise parking lot to get to their training spot for the day. They were lucky to enjoy the day training in the sun! Although the warm weather was perfect, the snow conditions could have been a little better. Kel said the team was post holing in the soft snow that has yet to completely settle from last weeks' storm and in the afternoon they saw a few point releases and some sloughing of snow.

Stay tuned for the climbs' update on the route in a few days!

New First Ascent gear!

Although the weather has made it feel more like winter, we're getting all geared up for the summer climbing season here in Ashford! The mountain has seen a lot of snow over the past week so be cautious out there in avalanche terrain. With low freezing levels, even Ashford has seen a bit of snow! That's good for the Mount Tahoma Trails - keeping the hut system accessible for a little longer this spring.

We're ready for the climbing season here in the shop! Check out the NEW First Ascent gear that we just got in! First Ascent has updated and modified a lot of gear for 2010. One must-have piece of gear for this year is the BC-200! Peter Whittaker swears by his BC-200, "A hardshell jacket is like an attorney...you rarely need one, but when you do, it should be a really really good one. I carry the BC-200 in the bottom of my pack 90% of the time, but for that other 10% of the time when the weather is hellish, it gives me full protection from the elements."



Raininer Mountaineering's first climb of the season is May 12th! Stay tuned for more updates, Rainier route conditions, trip reports and both Rainier and McKinley dispatches!

April Expedition Skills Seminar

RMI Guide, Andy Bond gave us a trip report from the April Expedition Skills Seminar. Here's a look at their week spent on the mountain:

After a day of orientation which included knot tying, transceiver practice, Leave No Trace Training and getting ready for our 4500' climb up to Camp Muir, our group was ready to head up the mountain for a week of training. Camp Muir is located at 10,040' on the south side of Mt. Rainier at the top of Muir Snowfield. Climbing Rainier in the winter, you never know what to expect in terms of weather. This trip provided us with a little bit of everything! We left Paradise on a pleasant day with good snowshoeing conditions but with a 1000' left to Camp Muir we found ourselves in a whiteout, but thankfully with no precipitation.

After moving into our hut which we called home for the week, it was time to start training. Camp Muir sits on a ridge separating the Muir Snowfield from the Cowlitz Glacier providing a perfect area to get in some avalanche as well as glacier travel training. Climbing to the Ingraham Flats gave us spectacular views of the Ingraham Headwall and the upper mountain as well as an opportunity to travel on glaciers and experience massive crevasses which would serve as the focus for training the next day.

The next days training focused on crevasse rescue and anchor building where everyone learned about different haul systems to pull people out of crevasses. One of the nice parts about being at 10,000' is that a lot of times we are above the clouds enjoying sunshine. Our group was able to enjoy the nice weather for training but also were able to see some beautiful sunsets.

Summit day was upon us which meant an early waking or alpine start. We put our harnesses, helmets, and crampons on and headed out up the Disappointment Cleaver route (Standard Route) with ice axes in hand at the early hour of four in the morning. After walking for an hour and arriving at our first break at the Ingraham Flats we found ourselves in a whiteout with snow falling and the wind blowing. Today was not going to be our day so we headed back to Camp Muir to get out of the storm. Thankfully the storm abated later that day and we set up some fixed lines practice for bigger mountains like Denali and Everest as well as nice 100 foot repel off of Muir Peak.

All in all it was a great week with lots of laughs and skills learned.

McKinley Season

McKinley season is just around the corner with RMI's first trip heading out on May 4th! While we're gearing up and outfitting the climbers as they prepare for their expedition, RMI owner and McKinley Expert, Joe and RMI Logistics Manager, Shawn are up to their ears in food! Check out these photos of the two of them packing for all of the McKinley climbs - that's a lot of food! They are meticulously counting and sorting out 22 days worth of breakfast and dinner for 12 climbers - for all 9 Alaskan expeditions! The only thing they aren't counting is calories!

Ed Viesturs Autographed Books!

Autographed copies of Ed Viesturs' books have arrived! We have Viesturs' newest book, K2: Life and Death on the World's Most Dangerous Mountain - an unforgettable account of triumph and tragedy on the world's second tallest mountain. We also have No Shortcuts to the Top - a memoir of Viesturs' quest to stand on the summits of the world's fourteen 8,000-meter peaks! Don't miss the opportunity to own autographed copies of these books!

*Click the images of the books to purchase online

Winter Expedition Skills Seminar - March 14-19

RMI Guide, Tyler Jones gave us a recap of the March 14-19 Winter Expedition Skills Seminar. Here's what Tyler had to say:


The week on Mt. Rainier was a blast! Our guides Billy, Andy, Pete any myself had a great group of folks from all over the world. The week started in Ashford with a day of packing, prepping, knots, and rescue skills. The next morning we had a perfect winter day, climbing to Camp Muir with blue skies and a light winds.
That night and through the next day a wild storm pounced on Camp Muir with the wind gusting to 80+ mph. Team endured the poor conditions in full attire while we constructed a grand snow cave to sit 15, along with building expedition quality camp walls for blocking wind and gained key foul weather self care skills. At the end of the day conditions were intense and we were all thankful to retire back in the bunkhouse.
The following morning was cold, blustery, and yet gorgeous blue bird day at 10,000ft on the Cowlitz Glacier. We practiced our ice axe and crampon skills, then broke the ropes out for a glacier walk. Our rope teams went to look for crevasses, to have a hands on live experience with crevasse rescue. I had my personal favorite crevasse rescue training session on Rainier and the group vibe was strong. That evening the guides had another lecture on mountain medicine, tour planning, and avalanches.
The last usable day we made an attempt for the Summit and achieved 11,500ft on the Gibraltar ledges route. We had a great time with spectacular exposure and an exciting rappel but the mountain’s avalanche hazard and cold wind from the north made conditions too unstable for the teams to continue. “There is always next time!” Overall, the day was outstanding! It was great to see everyone learning and having a great time, climbing up or down the snowy faces of Mt. Rainier.
The final morning broke to blue sky and we had beacon search training for breakfast. The team then packed equipment, closed up the bunkhouse and descended from Muir. The teams made it back to the parking lot easily in two hours!
Back in Ashford we had lunch together and said farewell to our new climbing friends having had a fun and safe experience in the mountains. I feel the guides all spilled their passions and knowledge of the mountains and gave one of the best skills seminars possible! I look forward to my next RMI skills seminar in Alaska for nine-day trip on the lower glaciers and peaks of Denali. It should be another one of a kind experience. Hope to see you in the mountains!

Great video of snow shoeing the South District of the MTTA huts.

A few weeks ago a young lady by the name of Anna came into our shop stating that she was making a video blog about snow shoeing in the Mount Rainier area. She had already finished her trip but wanted to film a segment where she would come into our shop and ask for directions to get the the south district of the Mount Tahoma Trails Association. Here is a link to the video.

ENJOY!
http://matadortv.com/winter-adventures-snowshoeing-mt-rainier/

Video produced for Under Solen (http://undersolenmedia.com) and MatdorTV (http://matadortv.com/) by Daniel Fox (http://thewildimageproject.com/)

First Winter Seminar of the season summits!

RMI had a great start to the New Year with a successful summit on a Rainier Winter Seminar. The trip lasted from Jan 3rd-8th. RMI guide Andy Bond was kind enough to give us a trip report.

"Heading up to climb a mountain in the dead of winter in rain is never a fun proposition, which is exactly what we were faced with on this January seminar. Leaving the Paradise parking lot in the rain for the 4500’ climb up to Camp Muir the group managed to push through white out conditions and rain all the way up to 9200’. The nice part about some storms in the Pacific Northwest is their low cloud ceiling or a marine layer, which meant Camp Muir was above the clouds and in the sun. The warm temps and nice weather up at Muir gave us a great chance to do some training for our summit climb push the next day. Practicing self-arrest, cramponing and rope travel before moving onto building anchors and crevasse rescue the group was able to work on and build skills needed to climb Mount Rainier and similar mountains.

We awoke the next morning to warm temps and not a breath of wind. Leaving Muir at 6 am we climbed the Gibralter Ledges route, which used to be the standard route on Rainier offering a more direct route to the summit. Climbing on the upper Cowlitz Glacier we saw the sun rise from the East painting an amazing array of colors across an incredibly clear sky where Mount Adams, Hood, Jefferson and Saint Helens were all visible. After enjoying these magical couple of minutes it was time to enjoy the steep climbing and sense of exposure the Ledges route gives a climber. You start by traversing along snowy ledges at the base of Gibralter Rock until you reach Gibralter Chute offering some 50 – 55 degree climbing with the Nisqually Ice Cliff to the left. Once out of the chute we were able to walk a pretty direct line to the summit switching backing over the filled in crevasses to the summit crater. After a safe descent back to Muir where the weather turned to near white out conditions we all enjoyed the comfort the shelter of the bunkhouse gave us from the storm. A long and hard, but very rewarding day left us with a sense of great accomplishment." Andy Bond

Thanks Andy for the great trip report. Check back this winter for more Mountaineering, Skiing and Snow shoeing trip reports.

WM

Driving to the South District of the Mount Tahoma Trails Association

As some of you may know the original road that takes you to the south district was washed out several seasons ago. The new route is a little different and actually takes you through Ashford. You can stop in at Whittaker Mountaineering to reserve your hut or to buy your SNO-PARK permit. We also rent Cross-Country Skis, Snow Shoes and even Randonee Ski set-ups.www.WhittakerMountaineering.com

Once you leave our shop, you will head West on 706 towards Mount Rainier National Park. About two and a half miles down on your right you will see Skate Creek Road/Forest Service Road 52. Hang a left there and follow the road down across the Nisqually River. As the road starts to bed to the left you will see a neighborhood on the right called Paradise Estates. Turn right like you are heading into the neighborhood and you will notice a road marked to the left that will take you up to the SNO-PARK.

You will then follow this road until you come across this sign where you will turn right.

You will pass over several bridges on you way up to the SNO-PARK. This one is Catt Creek. The bridge was once washed out but has since been restored.

Here you can either head up to the SNOW-PARK or head right towards the Anderson Lake trailhead.

As you can see only vehicles are allowed in the SNO-PARKS. Above the SNO-PARKS only foot traffic is allowed for its users. Dogs are permitted though.

At the lower SNO-PARK there is a bathroom for use. At this point you want to make sure and have your SNO-PARK permit visible on your windsheild. Once you pass the restrooms you will drive to the Upper SNO-PARK. The road is usually plowed to this point.

BE SURE TO HAVE LOTS OF FUN AND BE SAFE.

WM

Rocktober 2009

October brought a great season of rock climbing in Yosemite Valley, CA...great routes, great weather, and great folks to hang out with. We were fortunate to be able to spend almost three weeks in the Valley. The following are a few pictures of some different climbs. Highlights from the trip include Royal Arches, Serenity Crack, the East Buttress of El Cap, and the Nose of El Cap, and other great adventures. Here is a photo of our first day relaxing in El Cap Meadow checking out some climbing parties on El Capitan.

Here I am getting the rack together in the van.

Sunset on Half Dome...view from Dinner Ledge on Washington Column.

Here is Tyler on the East Buttress of El Cap.

I am mid-pitch on another section of the East Buttress of El Cap.

Tyler leading on the Great Roof of the Nose of El Cap.

Me cleaning on the Great Roof.

Me leading the Pancake Flake of the Nose.

A shot Tyler took looking down the Nose at the anchor after the Great Roof.

Tyler about to head into the Changing Corners pitch on the Nose.

View from the top of El Capitan, looking towards Royal Arches, Washington Column, and Half Dome.

Great trip...left with a lot of excitement for a return and more projects. Now back in Ashford with a few ski days under the belt and psyched for the predicted snow storm for the next couple days!

- Laura, Whittaker Mountaineering

Summer Ski on Mount Rainier June 30th-July 1st, 2009

It was predicted to be a warm couple days that I had off of work and Tyler Jones (RMI guide) had just returned to Ashford from a couple of months in Alaska, so we decided to ski Mt. Rainier. The night before our ski we headed up Copper Creek Road to check out our intended descent via the Tahoma Glacier from Glacier View. Spotting scope in tow, we planned our route and how to avoid the end-of-June crevasses. We got up early the next morning to drop a car off at the parking area on the Westside Road where we would finish up the following afternoon. We drove the other vehicle up to the Paradise parking area to start the climb. Our ascent route consisted of dropping onto the Nisqually Glacier, crossing over to the Wilson Glacier, and heading up the Fuhrer Finger. The Fuhrer Finger was fairly thin and sun-cupped at the time. There was also a fair bit of rockfall to dodge. We left skis on until arriving at the Finger and proceeded to boot pack the remainder of the way to our camp.

We camped near the top of the Finger on the Nisqually Tower. We had some delicious cold pizza, snacks, and water before an afternoon nap to get out of the sun.

The views were great looking 200ft down onto the Nisqually Glacier and watching the sunset over Mt. Adams with the moon on the rise. We got up at a relaxed 7:00 am, made a quick breakfast and headed towards the Wapowety Cleaver. Again a warm day with low winds, we came up to the east summit in a baselayer. We had topped out in the late morning, leaving us a couple hours to hang out on the summit while we waited for the snow conditions to become ripe for the skiing.

We set up the tent on top for a bit and dried out our boots. At two o’clock we clicked into our skis and prepped for the descent. We faced north towards Liberty Cap, then headed skier’s left towards the top of the Sickle feature of the upper Tahoma Glacier.

The skiing conditions were phenomenal…super smooth for the entirety of the descent save some crunchy wind-blown snow for the first 300ft off of the summit. We cruised down the lower Tahoma Glacier, floating around or over crevasses reaching the end of the snow at 4,800ft. Here we swapped our ski boots out for approach shoes and started hiking down the loose rocks of the Tahoma Creek bed.

The descent on foot was scenic, but involved some interesting 5.6 mud moves as well as some low friction volcanic dusty slab. We linked up with the Wonderland Trail where it crosses Tahoma Creek to take us out towards Westside Road and eventually my car. After retrieving the other car up at Paradise, it was back to Ashford for dinner. - Laura, Whittaker Mountaineering

RMI Guide and Owner of Whittaker Mountaineering Peter Whittaker shares gear tips with Backpacker Magazine

Excerpt from Backpacker Magazine, November 2009

• Follow the four-second rule. “There are zillions of zippers out there. Here’s how you choose: If it takes you longer than four seconds to get your jacket zipped, it’s not going to work on the mountain. Try another zipper – or if you’re a consumer in the store, try another jacket.”

• Strip away the doodads. “Most new, whiz-bang features just get in the way. You don’t need a pocket on your forearm when you have a Napoleon pocket. And I have no idea why glove designers insist on putting that webbing loop on the back of the middle finger. I’ve heard it’s so you can hang them to dry, but tell me–who does that at 17,000 feet?”

• Kill the pit zips. “If you’re using pit zips on a big mountain, then you shouldn’t be wearing a jacket anyway. As mountain guides, when we look back and see clients fiddling with pit zips, we see people not paying attention to the climb and compromising safety. Too hot? Pull up your sleeves or unzip your shirt to get some ventilation.”

• Don’t be afraid to scrap a bad idea. “On Everest, we watched our prototype tent flapping in the wind, and Ed Viesturs and I dived into a competitor’s tent instead. We killed that design and are spending another year in development rather than putting out a subpar product.”