Information on Snow/Route Conditions on Rainier

So far this winter Mount Rainier has received less than average snowfall. While there is speculation regarding the conditions on the upper mountain, we would like to share some of our thoughts relating to low snow years and the effect on climbing conditions. We feel that concerns over a lengthy route or difficult crevasses are currently premature. The spring season in the Northwest has every opportunity to provide the precipitation needed for a healthy late-summer snowpack. As well, route conditions on the upper glaciers of Mount Rainier are affected less by a winter snowpack (20' to 30') and more by the flow of the glaciers (200' to 300') against rock cleavers and buttresses. On an average snowpack year we usually see the winter snow melt off the glaciers by early August leaving older, harder glacier surfaces. On lighter snow pack years this may melt off earlier.

Below average snowpack is not a direct indicator as to how climbing will be on the upper glaciers of Mount Rainier. National Park Service records identify 2003 as one of the three lightest snow years on record since 1955. Yet, the route that summer proved to be the most direct and favorable despite all the speculation.

On March 10, 2005, RMI guides and 11 climbers reached the summit of Mount Rainier and reported conditions on the Cowlitz, Ingraham, and Emmons glaciers as typical for this time of year. It was also reported that snowpack below 10,000' is minimal.

We will be monitoring conditions on Mount Rainier as we have done for the last 35 years and share our observations with you as the summer climbing season approaches.