ENJOY!
http://matadortv.com/winter-adventures-snowshoeing-mt-rainier/
Video produced for Under Solen (http://undersolenmedia.com) and MatdorTV (http://matadortv.com/) by Daniel Fox (http://thewildimageproject.com/)
"Heading up to climb a mountain in the dead of winter in rain is never a fun proposition, which is exactly what we were faced with on this January seminar. Leaving the Paradise parking lot in the rain for the 4500’ climb up to Camp Muir the group managed to push through white out conditions and rain all the way up to 9200’. The nice part about some storms in the Pacific Northwest is their low cloud ceiling or a marine layer, which meant Camp Muir was above the clouds and in the sun. The warm temps and nice weather up at Muir gave us a great chance to do some training for our summit climb push the next day. Practicing self-arrest, cramponing and rope travel before moving onto building anchors and crevasse rescue the group was able to work on and build skills needed to climb Mount Rainier and similar mountains.
We awoke the next morning to warm temps and not a breath of wind. Leaving Muir at 6 am we climbed the Gibralter Ledges route, which used to be the standard route on Rainier offering a more direct route to the summit. Climbing on the upper Cowlitz Glacier we saw the sun rise from the East painting an amazing array of colors across an incredibly clear sky where Mount Adams, Hood, Jefferson and Saint Helens were all visible. After enjoying these magical couple of minutes it was time to enjoy the steep climbing and sense of exposure the Ledges route gives a climber. You start by traversing along snowy ledges at the base of Gibralter Rock until you reach Gibralter Chute offering some 50 – 55 degree climbing with the Nisqually Ice Cliff to the left. Once out of the chute we were able to walk a pretty direct line to the summit switching backing over the filled in crevasses to the summit crater. After a safe descent back to Muir where the weather turned to near white out conditions we all enjoyed the comfort the shelter of the bunkhouse gave us from the storm. A long and hard, but very rewarding day left us with a sense of great accomplishment." Andy Bond
Thanks Andy for the great trip report. Check back this winter for more Mountaineering, Skiing and Snow shoeing trip reports.
WM
October brought a great season of rock climbing in Yosemite Valley, CA...great routes, great weather, and great folks to hang out with. We were fortunate to be able to spend almost three weeks in the Valley. The following are a few pictures of some different climbs. Highlights from the trip include Royal Arches, Serenity Crack, the East Buttress of El Cap, and the Nose of El Cap, and other great adventures. Here is a photo of our first day relaxing in El Cap Meadow checking out some climbing parties on El Capitan.
Here I am getting the rack together in the van.
It was predicted to be a warm couple days that I had off of work and Tyler Jones (RMI guide) had just returned to Ashford from a couple of months in Alaska, so we decided to ski Mt. Rainier. The night before our ski we headed up Copper Creek Road to check out our intended descent via the Tahoma Glacier from Glacier View. Spotting scope in tow, we planned our route and how to avoid the end-of-June crevasses. We got up early the next morning to drop a car off at the parking area on the Westside Road where we would finish up the following afternoon. We drove the other vehicle up to the Paradise parking area to start the climb. Our ascent route consisted of dropping onto the Nisqually Glacier, crossing over to the Wilson Glacier, and heading up the Fuhrer Finger. The Fuhrer Finger was fairly thin and sun-cupped at the time. There was also a fair bit of rockfall to dodge. We left skis on until arriving at the Finger and proceeded to boot pack the remainder of the way to our camp.

We camped near the top of the Finger on the Nisqually Tower. We had some delicious cold pizza, snacks, and water before an afternoon nap to get out of the sun.

The views were great looking 200ft down onto the Nisqually Glacier and watching the sunset over Mt. Adams with the moon on the rise. We got up at a relaxed 7:00 am, made a quick breakfast and headed towards the Wapowety Cleaver. Again a warm day with low winds, we came up to the east summit in a baselayer. We had topped out in the late morning, leaving us a couple hours to hang out on the summit while we waited for the snow conditions to become ripe for the skiing.

We set up the tent on top for a bit and dried out our boots. At two o’clock we clicked into our skis and prepped for the descent. We faced north towards Liberty Cap, then headed skier’s left towards the top of the Sickle feature of the upper Tahoma Glacier.

The skiing conditions were phenomenal…super smooth for the entirety of the descent save some crunchy wind-blown snow for the first 300ft off of the summit. We cruised down the lower Tahoma Glacier, floating around or over crevasses reaching the end of the snow at 4,800ft. Here we swapped our ski boots out for approach shoes and started hiking down the loose rocks of the Tahoma Creek bed.
The descent on foot was scenic, but involved some interesting 5.6 mud moves as well as some low friction volcanic dusty slab. We linked up with the Wonderland Trail where it crosses Tahoma Creek to take us out towards Westside Road and eventually my car. After retrieving the other car up at Paradise, it was back to Ashford for dinner. - Laura, Whittaker Mountaineering
Excerpt from Backpacker Magazine, November 2009
• Follow the four-second rule. “There are zillions of zippers out there. Here’s how you choose: If it takes you longer than four seconds to get your jacket zipped, it’s not going to work on the mountain. Try another zipper – or if you’re a consumer in the store, try another jacket.”
• Strip away the doodads. “Most new, whiz-bang features just get in the way. You don’t need a pocket on your forearm when you have a Napoleon pocket. And I have no idea why glove designers insist on putting that webbing loop on the back of the middle finger. I’ve heard it’s so you can hang them to dry, but tell me–who does that at 17,000 feet?”
• Kill the pit zips. “If you’re using pit zips on a big mountain, then you shouldn’t be wearing a jacket anyway. As mountain guides, when we look back and see clients fiddling with pit zips, we see people not paying attention to the climb and compromising safety. Too hot? Pull up your sleeves or unzip your shirt to get some ventilation.”
• Don’t be afraid to scrap a bad idea. “On Everest, we watched our prototype tent flapping in the wind, and Ed Viesturs and I dived into a competitor’s tent instead. We killed that design and are spending another year in development rather than putting out a subpar product.”
a grouse because of its size, but after standing next to it and snapping pictures we decided this was a Ptmarigan whose feathers were changing to their winter white making it practically invisible as it stands on the snowy slopes during winter. As we hiked higher and closer to Mount Rainier on this warm November day, the magic of our close proximity stopped us in our tracks to stare at this magnificent majestic sight. Hiking at Paradise is definitely being in PARADISE!








BEAR DAY at PARADISE!
by sally Nov.10.2008 12:10:33 am

Taken on October 29th from Chinook Pass………
Here are some of my favorite fall photos from previous years.
Mouse over photos for information………….
Before you go any further…. let me remind you of the following information………
This photo from a previous year is where my bear adventure took place at Paradise. This is the lower paved trail into Edith Creek Basin area where there is a place to view Mrytle Falls.
Fall has come to the mountain! It’s beautiful presently! The mornings are cool, crisp and dewy! The daylight time is shorter with some downright cold evening weather. The “Caution - Roads are Icy” sign sits prominently at the national park entrance and also at Longmire to note that winter is just around the corner.
The weather has been unpredictable which is not uncommon during the month of October. There have been glorious sunny October days but unlike the month of September the sunny days stay only a day or two at a time. It has rained in the city and snowed at the mountain and yet the next day may bring warmth from the sun to melt ice or snow or dry the dew on the leaves.
The autumn colors are appearing everywhere around Mt. Rainier. The vine maples always make the biggest color statement but they were still not at their peak on Tuesday, October 14th when I visited. Paradise showed a fair amount of red low lying bushes and lots of foliage with yellow hues. But the greenish yellow told the tale that with more cold frosty mornings shades of orange and deep reds would soon appear on the slopes of the Paradise hills.
This year has been difficult for the mountain black bears! The huckleberries and blueberries didn’t ripen until mid September! The bears should have been eating berries starting in August to fatten themselves for their long winter hibernation. On this Tuesday in October, I didn’t see blueberries or huckleberries on the slopes above the Paradise Inn but instead some red berries I think are called elderberries. However, on an earlier September 26th visit to Paradise while hiking up the Deadhorse Creek Trail, I had feasted on both blueberries and huckleberries that were ripe and ready. Perhaps the cold chill made the berries drop off the bushes leaving just the red berries now for the bears. Presently, the bears are in an altered state of urgency honed into eating everything they can before their long winter nap. Thus stories of daily bear sightings are flooding in from everyone visiting Paradise as the bears eat the red elderberries voraciously. The bear reports are mostly noting the bears around Paradise are young yearling bears. A yearling bear is one that has been abandoned by the mother bear to begin their solitary bear life. The young bears seem not to be afraid of people unlike the older wiser bears. These young bears are “hanging out” around the paved lower trails and around the closed Paradise Inn populated by people most of the time. Therefore a trip to Paradise right now not only excites the senses for the beauty of the fall colors but also excites the sense of adventure of seeing a bear in the wild.
My short trip to Paradise on Tuesday, October 14th also became an adventure all about bears! The mountain was hidden behind a thin veil of clouds but the crisp fall air with its special scent from the dying foliage making autumn colors was plenty to make this trip well worth the drive. But the bear experience that unfolded at the beginning of the trail behind the Paradise Inn pushed the limits of excitement beyond my wildest dreams.
I was walking up the paved trail section behind the Paradise Inn toward Myrtle Falls and Edith Creek. Suddenly, around a curve in the paved path a bear came walking toward me.
I stood frozen with fear not knowing what to do. Scream? Run backward? Yikes, what was the right thing to do?? I didn’t have time to think because the bear kept walking toward me so I stopped moved to the side of the paved path and placed my tripod with camera attached down on the pavement and began snapping photos. What else could I do?
The bear kept walking toward me and when the bear was right beside me it stepped down off the pavement and veered down a bit away from me. But as soon as the bear was past me it walked back up onto the edge of the paved path with an obvious destination in mind. Unbelievable! I think my heart stopped for awhile as the bear past by me. I couldn’t remember the actual passing because of my extreme fright! After the bear walked past I realized its focus was on getting to a good elderberry patch. This young bear was totally unfazed by humans. I had read about this bear on Mike Gauthier’s Climbing Blog that is accessible on the right side of this blog page. This particular bear was brown with golden blonde hair sticking up in spiky points on its back neck that was an unusual sight! After seeing the photos on this blog, check out the latest posting on Mike’s blog to see another bear photo taken at Paradise.
My bear story should end here but it doesn’t! As I began leaving the parking area at Paradise while I was looking toward the Tatoosh Range, a small bear that was black darted out from behind the Paradise Inn in front of my car running to the opposite side of the road… I suspect to get more elderberries. I had to slam on my brakes since I was momentarily looking away from the Paradise Inn side of the road in order to not hit the bear with my car. Holy Cow! Or should I say……Holy Bear? What a bear day at Paradise!
I will let my series of BEAR PHOTOS show my story!
ENJOY!
Sally Johnson
Sally’s Photos
www.mtrainierphotos.com






