Information from www.mtrainierphotos.com

Written on September 15th but photos were taken on 9-9-2008…………

Mouse over photos for information………..


Don’t forget to click on “Archives” on the left side of this posting for OTHER JOURNALS with photos! There are postings dating all the way back to last summer, fall and winter seasons with tons of photos. If you are visiting Mt. Rainier check out the journals from last year for information on what there is to see.

I have posted day hiking suggestions for September so check out my suggestions on the blog posting titled “8-18-2008 Day Hiking Suggestions”.

September is the start of the fall season in the Pacific Northwest with chilly mornings and moist wet dew on everything making you think it rained during the night. This September of 2008 the weather has been spectacular with bright sunny days warming up to the high 70’s or 80’s after evening temperatures plunging down to 40 degrees. Mount Rainier has been showing off to all the city folks in the Seattle – Tacoma area with awesome morning sunrises and nice pink sunsets with the moon close by increasing to full size.

Inside Mount Rainer National Park this September is particularly special! Due to the late snowfall in June and the long snow melting season that lasted into the middle of August, the summer flowers are blooming now in September! I have often seen what I call the “Clash of Seasons” where winter snow lays on top of autumn red, orange and yellow foliage, but never before have I seen big patches of lush summer flowers druring the fall season. The mountain meadow flowers normally peak at the end of July and beginning of August and are gone by the third week. Therefore, I am calling this September the “historical” autumn season at Mount Rainier National Park.

In between Reflection Lake and Paradise there are many mountain blueberries and huckleberries bushes that fatten the bears as they get ready for their winter hibernation. This September the berries are still a transparent green and will obviously not ripen after long lasting snow lingered until late summer. Without the berries the bears have moved higher toward Paradise this year and have been frequently seen around the Paradise trails. Next April in 2009 as the berry starved bears wake up from their long naps, I suspect, they will be ravenously hungry and unfortunately will quickly find food sources close to people.

With the hint of fall coming to the mountain from the yellow colors appearing on slopes near Paradise and some red vine maples along the Nisqually Road on September 9th, vibrant fall colors will soon decorate the park. Will the warm September weather keep the summer flowers blooming a while longer as the frosty mornings of autumn transform the bushes to fall colors of yellow, orange and red? Check back to see what happens in Mount Rainier National Park!



Written on September 15th after participating in Whittaker’s Rainier Mountain Festival in Ashford on the weekend……….
While at the festival, reports from people that had been hiking said the summer flowers were still blooming! Today, on Monday the 15th of September, the 80 degree weather continues into its second week! This is a glorious month so far!

Sally Johnson
www.mtrainierphotos.com

Fresh Snow!

In the past two weeks we've had some unusual weather throughout the area. Freezing levels dropped significantly and fresh snow accumulated on the mountain as low as 7000 ft. There was even a slight dusting of snow at Paradise covering the wildflowers, although it didn't last long.

On the upper mountain, the new snow created some difficulties for climbers travelling above Camp Muir, but within a few days the Disappointment Cleaver route was back in shape. Rocky sections were once again covered in snow, speeding up travel and making the route even more enjoyable!

Here in Basecamp we're beginning to prepare for the 2008 Rainier Mountain Festival. If you've never made it out to the festival before, come join us! There's lots of crazy deals on new and used equipment, mountaineering slide shows and demonstrations from world class climbers, great food and drink, and live entertainment throughout the day! Oh, and don't forget the alpine games, book signings from mountaineering legends like Jim Whittaker, Lou Whittaker, and Ed Viesturs, and a huge raffle comprised of over $10,000 in gear!

http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/

Summer Climbing Update

Even though labor day is fast approaching, we are happy to report that the climbing conditions on Rainier remain excellent. The Disappointment Cleaver Route has changed very little throughout the summer and is much more direct (i.e. shorter) than it was at the same time last year due to heavy spring snowfall. Get out on the mountain if you haven't had the chance yet this year!

While most climbers on Rainier take 2-3 days to climb a route like the Disappointment Cleaver, several local guides have made news recently by taking advantage of the route's direct conditions for setting new speed records. The previous record was held by former NPS climbing ranger Chad Kellogg, who in 2004 climbed from Paradise to the summit and back to Paradise in 4 hours, 59 minutes, and 1 second. While this seems unfathomable to most mortals, his record was broken not once, but twice this season! Check out this Seattle Times article about the friendly rivalry that has developed.

Thinking about climbing Rainier (at a more realistic pace) with RMI? Want to know what it's like to ascend the Disappointment Cleaver? RMI Guide Jenny Sherry was kind enough to take our helmet cam along on a climb earlier this month and captured some great footage that you can see here:




www.whittakermountaineering.com

Winter Climbing Stats on Mount Rainier

This comes from Mike Gauthier. Thanks Mike

What happened to all of the winter climbers?
This winter has delivered some rather amazing weather and snow conditions. As we've noted, Mount Rainier has seen its fair share of extended snowstorms and extreme avalanche conditions. But lately, that trend hasn’t been the case. Over the past few weeks, the mountain has largely been blessed with beautiful days and clear nights. Swarms of visitors have been making the most of these sunny skies, warmer temps and rather calm weather. Ski and snowshoe trails lace the Paradise area and virtually every prominent vista has a few down-hill tracks below them. Even the ski boots tracks has been pretty deep on recent weekends. But what’s noticeable is the lack of boot and ski tracks venturing beyond Camp Muir. With only a few weeks left in March and the remaining days of winter rapidly slipping away, we’re wondering "What happened to all of winter climbers?" During the last "normal" winter '05-'06 (loosely defined as Dec 1 March 31) 185 climbers attempted the summit on Mount Rainier. This winter ('07-'08) our climbing attendance has precipitously dropped to a lowly 42 attempts! One wonders, is this a trend? After reviewing the past six years (with the exception of last winter when the primary road was entirely closed), the next lowest attendance was '03-'04 when only 104 climbers attempted to summit. That number is more than double what we're seeing this year. So what gives?Of the 42 climbers this winter, only 6 have been successful (a 14.3% success rate). That success rate falls within the historic average during the same time range (Dec 1 – March 30). The winter high on Mount Rainier was 23.3% during the '06-'07 season (oddly enough when the road was closed) and the low was 1.6% in '05-'06. The big story, however, is the notable drop in the number of climbers attempting the summit. This data backs up the anecdotal observations of those who frequent the Park. They say that people are just not coming in as large numbers as they used to. With the exception of a few busy weekends this winter, the park has not seen the overall visitation that is normally expected. Taking into account this season’s well publicized avalanche concerns, this is somewhat understandable. Let’s face it, December 2007 and most of 2008 have been a tough year for positive Rainier press… The winter started with one avalanche fatality and was promptly followed by numerous road closures and other warnings of high avalanche danger. Certainly, the media picked up the tempo. There was plenty of coverage in every major newspaper including even the New York Times. At the main visitor centers, the most common questions received relate to the weather and avalanche conditions. Many people are calling to check if "the Mountain" is even ‘OPEN’. YES, "the Mountain" is "OPEN" and by all accounts "the Mountain" is looking pretty darn good on these recent clear days. So, here are those climbers stats for the past few winters. These cover December 1 - March 31. By the way, we normally consider winter attempts from Dec 21 to March 20 (or whatever the exact "winter" season is).
2007-2008 - 42 climbers - 6 summited
2006-2007 - 17 climbers - 4 summited
2005-2006 - 185 climbers - 3 summited
2004-2005 - 208 climbers - 32 summited
2003-2004 - 104 climbers - 4 summited
2002-2003 - 230 climbers - 36 summited
2001-2002 - 137 climbers - 14 summited

www.whittakermountaineering.com

Mount Tahoma Trail Update

Trail Report

March 15, 2008


Snow has returned to the trail and ski conditions are Great! Over the past three days the area around Copper Creek Hut has added 30 inches of new snow on top of an existing 7 foot base. Hut use drops off starting in April and if you have not yet stayed overnight at the Hut you may want to try and get a reservation. Ski conditions will be good well into May, but there is no public use after May 1.

Snow parking area is still located at the lower gate and will stay at that location for the next few weeks, maybe the rest of the season. The trails are being groomed, so come on out and enjoy the great snow conditions!

If you have any ideas on funding sources for the second new snow cat, please e-mail MTTA (mtta@skimtta.com).

One other item of interest is the Yurt is still standing after ½ dozen shoveling trips (see next newsletter), with a little luck it’s going to survive this winter because of a lot of very hard work from our volunteers.

Regards,
Bob Brown
Trail Operations Coordinator
Mount Tahoma Trails Association
mtta@skimtta.org
www.skimtta.org

Mount Rainier Paradise Report

February 15, 2008For Immediate ReleaseDonna Rahier, 36-0569-2211, ext. 2301Paradise Area Projected to Reopen Sunday, February 17, 2008Mount Rainier National Park Superintendent Dave Uberuaga advises that theroad to Paradise will remain closed until Sunday, February 17. The road hasbeen closed to the public since February 7 when the heavy snowfall in theCascades increased the avalanche hazard to the point that it was extremelydifficult to keep the road safely open. At that time, Paradise had 189inches of snow on the ground and continued heavy snow, followed by a wet,warming trend further increased the avalanche danger.Over the weekend more than 10 natural avalanches released depositing heavy,dense snow in several areas between Longmire and Paradise. The park’s RoadCrew began the slow task of removing the avalanche debris along with thenew snow that had accumulated(up to 10 feet in some locations). Throughoutthe week they have continued to blow and plow snow to clear the roadways,the parking areas, pullouts and provide access to buildings. OtherMaintenance personnel spent the week shoveling the deep snow frombuildings, accessways, water and sewer plants, and hydrants and otherfacilities that have been buried.Snow removal and cleanup will continue today, as well as getting thesnowplay area groomed and ready for use. The last remaining hurdle is asatisfactory water supply test, which has to be confirmed by the State ofWashington before reopening to the public can occur. We expect thatconfirmation on Saturday.

Plastic Mountaineering Boots

As many of you are finding out or have found out in the past 6 months, Koflach is no longer making plastic boots. We used Koflach boots in our rental fleet for the past 12 years, and are sorry to see them go. The one reason we liked Koflach is because in a rental fleet, they fit a wide range of feet well. Over the past 6 months, we have studied and tried the three remaining plastic boot companies to determine who we should go with in the future. We will carry Scarpa Inverno and Omega, Asolo AFS boots, along with the Lowa Cirvetta boots in our retail store. We have decided to carry the Scarpa Inverno boots in our rental fleet and will recommend the Scarpa Inverno with high alititude liners for those who are going to Denali. We are also in the midst of getting feedback from a dozen or so mountain guides in regards to the leather boot world. We carry some leather boots, but after we collect our data from the past 12 months we will be recommending leather options for Rainier and other mountains.

Sizing plastic boots can be very confusing below you will find sizing info for the Scarpa Boots

Sizing:

Scarpa manufactures its boots in whole AND half sizes, but the markings on the boots and packaging can be confusing. Here are several things to be aware of when you receive your new boots:

The sizes listed on the packaging and the boot components are given in UK sizes. UK sizes are one full size smaller than US sizes. Example: A size 10 UK is a size 11 US, and a size 10.5 UK is a size 11.5 US.
The inner boot (liner) is made in whole and half sizes. It is clearly labeled in UK sizes on the back of the ankle.
The outer shell boot is only made in whole sizes. Therefore, any half size boots use an outer shell that is one half size bigger than the inner boot. Example: A size 10.5 boot uses a size 10.5 inner boot and a size 11 outer shell. Sizes can be found in two places on the outer shell. The most obvious one is inside the collar of the boot (the flexible, hinged ankle portion). However, this is not the true size of the boot; it is simply the collar size. The true boot size is found just below the collar on inside of the main portion of boot, again in UK sizes.

Confused? Here is one final example: You ordered a size 9.5 US boot. The inner boot will be labeled 8.5, and the outer shell will be labeled 9. There may also be a small gold sticker on the outside of the shell identifying the boot as an 8.5.


Fit:

Be sure to wear appropriate socks when trying your boots on. We recommend a well-cushioned wool sock layered over a thin liner sock. When you lace your boots up, be sure to leave them loose around your ankle to allow for movement and to avoid bruising your shins. Walk around: your boots should feel loose but not sloppy. Unlike hiking boots or ski boots, it is normal for your heel to lift up inside of the boot when you walk. Now kick the toe of the boot into the ground: if your toes hit hard into the front of the boot, they may be too small. Remember, your feet will swell throughout the day, so it is a good idea to try your boots on after a long day on your feet.

Still confused about sizing? Not sure if the boots fit? Give us a call with any questions at 800-238-5756.

Snow anyone?

Mount Rainier National Park News Release

February 7, 2008
For Immediate Release
Lee Taylor 360-569-2211 x.6131

Road to Paradise Closed by Heavy Snow
February 7, 2008—Like the rest of the Cascades, Mount Rainier National Park has been buried by snow in recent weeks. Paradise, at 5,400 feet, has received at least a foot of snow every day since January 28 except for one.
More than 156 inches --13 feet -- of snow has fallen in the past 11 days!
"We’re closing the road from Longmire to Paradise to protect park visitors," said park Superintendent Dave Uberuaga. "Continuous winter storms have increased the avalanche hazards and made it very difficult to keep the road open.
Heavy mountain snow and windy conditions are expected to extend through Friday and into the weekend.
"We have the plows and drivers necessary to clear the snow, and we will reopen the road as soon as conditions improve," said Uberuaga.
With 189 inches of snow already on the ground at Paradise, one thing is for certain. Once the weather finally clears, snow play conditions at Paradise will be truly heavenly!
To check road and weather information at Mount Rainier National Park call
360-569-2211 and then select 1.

Mount Tahoma Trail Update

Trail Report

January 30, 2008

We now have seven to ten feet of snow up at the huts, with another two or three feet forecast prior to this weekend. The heavy snow has resulted in the snow park being moved 1.2 miles back down the road from the normal snow park (outhouse parking area). There is just too much snow, with no place to push it!

Getting to the hut from the current snow park requires 5.5 miles and a 1600-foot vertical climb. The first 2.5 miles from the snow park is being snowmobile groomed, once you reach the section of trail being groomed by our new snow cat you can expect approximately 20 miles of professionally groomed trails.

There is a narrow section that keeps our snow cat from accessing the lower 2.5 miles of trail.

If you are planning a trip to Copper Creek Hut you should consider the extra 1.2 miles and additional 600 vertical feet.

Once you reach the snow cat grooming, ski conditions are great! Normal winter snow fall from this point forward is going to result in record snow fall for our system this year. We will have a good skiable base well into May this year.

Check out our High Hut web cam which has been working lately. Our web page is being updated and you should check it out from time to time for current information.

Make sure you have tire chains and allow some extra time for your trip!

See you out on the trail.

Trail and Road update

A Quick update for you.
The MTTA trails on the Northside are well groomed and in excellent shape right now. The plan is for DNR to plow to the upper snowpark on Friday Jan 18th, YEAH
Paradise is covered with over 140 inches of snow and 40 inches at Longmire. The sledding at Paradise has been great.

For you mountaineers, who are planning a Summer 08 trip, the snow pack is about normal and everything looks good so far.

Mount Tahoma Ski Trail Information

Whittaker Mountaineering just recieved information about the MTTA Trail Conditions here it is. For those who don't know the trail system is just above Whittaker Mountaineering.

Trail Report

November 29, 2007

Today there was 8” of snow at the 92 road snow park and 2 feet up at Copper Creek Hut. The trails should all be groomed tomorrow and the road to the snow park is scheduled to be plowed today. We are in great need of donations to pay for grooming fuel (currently almost $4 per gallon in Ashford)!!!! Our funds are very low because of the unexpected need to purchase a plow blade to keep the snow park access roads open.

You might want to check out the High Hut web cam after 6 pm today, with luck and some adjustments we may have a current picture of the snow conditions at High Hut. Also see the copper creek picture attached for a pic taken today.

Are your skis and snowshoe’s ready? Today we had three inches of snow at the 92 road snow park and the forecast calls for snow on and off the rest of the week. Copper Creek hut is ready for the winter, the solar panel is charging the batteries, the propane tank is full, and all the new renovations (laminated wood floors, new tables & chairs, etc.) are ready for your use. New trail post and signs have been installed! Most of the trails between the snow park and the hut have been brushed out. All we need is snow and we are ready for business.

The long lead forecast for the entire winter calls for an excellent snow pack, good skiing all winter.

All of MTTA’s grooming equipment is ready to go and our new snow cat will be out on the trail by January 1, 2008. We still have $10,500 in sales tax to pay on the new snow cat. This by its self is a good reason to mail a donation.

For our trail to be successful we need three components to come together. The Hut must be in good order to handle our visitors, the trails from the snow park to the hut need to be groomed, and the roads from the main highway to the snow parking area needs to be plowed. Because of your help and donations we have all the major components in place.

One surprise that came upon us late this fall was our road plow contractor going out of business. Many of you may not understand how the roads to the snow parks are kept plowed. You purchase a snow park permit and those funds are used to plow the roads. This plowing is accomplished by private contractors hired by the agencies receiving grant funds. The Dept. of Natural Resources has received grants to plow the MTTA access road for many years. When their contractor informed them he would not be plowing this season they had to put out a request for snow plow bids. They did this twice and received no bids. Without a private contractor to do the plowing we (MTTA & DNR) were faced with a major problem.

DNR and MTTA have developed a partnership which is able to adapt to problems. DNR didn’t have any money in their budget to purchase a plow blade, but they did have a truck available. MTTA purchased a blade and DNR installed the blade. This year a DNR employee will be plowing the road with their truck and the (yellow) plow blade which MTTA purchased. If you can’t get to the snow parking areas, you have no trail!
Because of you donations of cash and volunteer labor we have a new snow cat to groom the trails. With DNR’s help we have a solution to keep the access roads plowed.

MTTA had to spend $6000 to purchase the new plow blade and this has left us very short on cash. With fuel running almost $4 per gallon we need your help to keep things running. Please consider mailing a donation today, Make checks payable to: MTTA and mail to P O BOX 206, Ashford, WA 98304. You can also go to our web page and use PayPal to make a donation via your credit card.

See you on the trail!


Regards,
Bob Brown
Trail Operations Coordinator
Mount Tahoma Trails Association
mtta@skimtta.org
www.skimtta.org

Mount Rainier Snowshoe

Whittaker Mountaineering is pleased to see new snow arriving about 5000 ft. It is time to dust of the snowshoes and XC skis. Paradise will be open for snowshoeing this winter. We will update this blog with information frequently about conditions. Make sure to check out our weather page as well.

Mount Rainier Route Weather Update Whittaker Mountaineering

Rainier Update 08/22/2007
A persistent marine cloud layer and cooler temperatures have been the trend on Mount Rainier this summer. Though we have not experienced a significant snowfall (it can snow 3 to 4 feet on the upper mountain), we did pick up 5 to 6 inches of snow above 11,000’ several days ago. The winter snow pack on the Muir snowfield is rapidly melting and patches of firm snow and ice are emerging, particularly around Moon Rocks at 9,000’. While the ice is a bit challenging, our guided teams are navigating around these sections and are able to do so without crampons.
From Camp Muir at 10,000’, the route traverses the Cowlitz Glacier. Several small crevasses are crossed as the trail ascends Cathedral Gap and onto the Ingraham Flats at 11,000’. From here the route drops down under Disappointment Cleaver, descending about 400 vertical feet. Once under the Cleaver, a series of switchbacks ascend the Emmons Glacier, up to about 11,500’, and take climbers to a new section of the route that was put in last week. The new trail works it way north on an ascending traverse which gains the Emmons Shoulder at around 11,800’. After several more switchbacks this new trail connects with the old route at around 12,400’. Here, the trail switchbacks up the shoulder and begins to traverse south at approximately 13,000’. These switchbacks are well established as they cross the upper Ingraham glacier and finish at Columbia Crest.
All in all, the route offers very typical late season climbing, and we expect similar conditions through the end of the climbing season.

Rainier Mountain Festival

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

Contact:
Jeremy Foust
Whittaker Mountaineering
PO BOX W
Ashford, Wash 98304
jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com
http://www.rainierfestival.com
PH (360) 569-2142
FAX (360) 569-2982

Sixth Annual Rainier Mountain Festival Features Top Climbers

Ashford, Wash., Wednesday, August 8, 2007

What: 2007 Rainier Mountain Festival
When: September 15 and 16, 2007
Where: Rainier Basecamp, 30027 SR 706 E, Ashford, Wash.
How Much: Admission is Free

For more info: www.rainierfestival.com

The Sixth Annual Rainier Mountain Festival will again feature a great gathering of American Mountaineers on September 15 and 16 in Ashford, Wash. Noted climbers will include Jim Whittaker (first American to summit Everest), Ed Viesturs (first American to climb all fourteen 8,000 meter peaks without oxygen), Lou Whittaker (American climbing legend and founder of Rainier Mountaineering Inc), and over 15 other climbers who have stood on top of Everest. The climbers will be hosting films and slide shows, signing books, and conducting equipment demonstrations.
Other activities at the festival will include a ‘Post-Monsoon’ equipment and clothing clearance sale, a 5-mile run, Alpine Games, climbing wall for all ages, BBQ and local brews, live entertainment, raffles, mountaineering travel displays, kids’ games. A raffle will be done throughout the event and proceeds will go towards trail restoration in Mount Rainier National Park. Admission is free for all events except for the 5-mile run.
The festival will take place at Rainier Basecamp in Ashford, Wash., just outside of Mount Rainier National Park.
Alpine Game events will include a head to head speed climbing event, timed tent erecting, sled pulls, and speed rope coiling, and winners will receive cash prizes.

Contact:
Jeremy Foust, Jeremy@whittakermountaineering.com
800-238-5756

Mount Rainier route conditions

Rainier Update 08/07/2007
August has arrived and conditions on Mount Rainier are typical for this time of year. The trails from Paradise (5,400') to Pebble Creek (7,200') are all melted out. From Pebble Creek to Camp Muir the snowfields are firm and beginning to get sun cupped making for ideal hiking conditions. Rock features such as The Bear ((8,200'), Top of Moon Rocks (9,200'), and Anvil Rock (9,500') on the snowfield are emerging as the winter snow pack has melted.
From Camp Muir the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier with just several small crevasse to be stepped over. Cathedral Gap (10,500') is all rock and scree with a nice trail leading up to the Ingraham Glacier (10, 800'). Several large crevasses on top of Disappointment Cleaver have made access off of the Cleaver onto the Emmons Glacier challenging and due to this the route has been moved. The trail accesses the Emmons underneath the Cleaver and then ascends up the Emmons in a series of switchbacks hitting the Emmons shoulder at about 12,300'. From the shoulder, the route works its way up to 13,000' and then traverses south back to the Ingraham and on up to Columbia Crest.

Koflach Degre and Expe Boots Whittaker Mountaineering

Have you heard? Koflach is no longer going to be making plastic mountaineering boots. Whittaker Mountaineering first heard this in the spring and have tried to get our hands on as many as possible. We have used Koflach Degre boots in our rental fleet for years, and have had good luck with the Expe on Denali. We are now in the process of looking at what to do next. There are still several expeditions that using a plastic mountaineering boot makes sense, and in a rental situation it seems to always make the most sense. (because you don't have to break in double plastic boots) We have put Scarpa and Lowa boots in our rental fleet to see if they hold up well, and gather climbers feedback to see what direction to go in for 2008. We are meeting with Plastic Boot manufactures in a few weeks to see what will best work for those who are interested in purchasing plastic boots in the future. In the mean time we do have several sizes of the boots available so don't miss your chance. http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/categories.asp?d=Footwear&cat=3&root=undefined&rootid=undefined

Mount Rainier Weather Update

Yes, the strange wet July week of weather looks like it is over. From July 16-July 22, Mt Rainier and the whole state of Washington experienced some wet times. Summer seems to be back which is a good thing. Groups are summitting again, and the route looks to be okay. We will have a detailed route update soon.

Weatherwise Article about Whittaker Mountaineering Adviser

On the Job:Alex Van SteenAlex
Van Steen is a guide for Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., a mountaineering company based in Mount Rainier National Park, WA. Van Steen, who began climbing as a teenager, has more than 50 first ascents under his belt, and he’s made two attempts on Everest; the second time he reached 28,000 feet before turning back. Van Steen has summitted Mount Rainier more than 200 times, leading climbers past treacherous icefalls and crevasses on the mountain’s steep slopes.
What are the worst weather conditions that you’ve ever experienced on a mountain?

I think probably the worst weather I’ve experienced was when I was high up on a mountain trying to sleep in a tent. The tent was strapped down fairly well, but really strong winds made me concerned that the tent was going to tear apart. And so I put on—and this is a common strategy—all my clothing and my boots. Although I caught maybe a little bit of rest, I certainly didn’t sleep. But if the tent disintegrated around me, then at least I would have had my clothing on, like my suit, and my boots.

Is it possible for the tent to blow off a mountain with you in it?

You could be in it. We tie it down with three-millimeter cord, and then on some of these peaks where we’re very exposed, we have a net made of one-inch webbing, and we actually anchor the tent down underneath that net. It would really take a lot to tear a tent off the mountain, but on some places, like Mount McKinley and Mount Everest, they do get destroyed.

Do you find the extreme weather to be part of the appeal?

I enjoy the extreme weather very much. There’s a limit, obviously, if you’re in over your head or it’s ridiculously uncomfortable. That’s no fun for anybody, so you say, “let’s turn around.” But I enjoy being able to deal with that kind of weather and navigate in it and survive in it and play in it. I have a metabolism where I get warm very easily. I don’t get cold very easily, so I do really well in cold temperatures.
—MEGHAN JOYCE is the assistant editor for Weatherwise.

Denali Update

Denali has seen some interesting weather this season. Here is an update

West Buttress
May 2: Summited May 21

May 9: Summited May 23

May 16: Reached 19,600'

May 23: Summited June 12

May 30: Summited June 14

June 13: Summited June 29

June 20: Reached 17,200' June 27:

West RibJune 7: Reached 19,800'

If you are looking for to read dispatches from 2007 click here http://www.rmiguides.com/mckinley/mckinley_dispatches.html

Wanting to read a expedition journal by Seth Waterfall.

http://www.rmiguides.com/pdfs/Expedition-Journal_MountMcKinley_Waterfall2.pdf

Blinded in Iraq, he climbs Rainier.

TheNewsTribune.comSection: Local

Blinded in Iraq, he beats Rainier MELANTHIA MITCHELL; The Associated Press

Scott Smiley lives life a little differently since being blinded by shrapnel that ripped through his eyes in a suicide bombing in Iraq, but it’s a challenge he has embraced.
The 27-year-old Army captain reached the summit of Mount Rainier on Tuesday. And he’ll be honored Thursday as the Army Times’ Soldier of the Year.
Smiley, who lost his sight in a 2005 bombing in Mosul, reached the top of the 14,411-foot peak early in the day along with several other climbers, including a half dozen guides from Rainier Mountaineering Inc.
“The team did summit at 8 a.m. on the north side of the mountain,” said Peter Whittaker, an RMI co-owner who talked to the group by radio. He said the climbing party immediately began descending so that Smiley could catch a flight to Washington, D.C., for the Soldier of the Year ceremony. The award is presented by Army Times Publishing Co.
Mount Rainier is considered a technical, difficult climb, and to attempt it climbers must have a certain level of skill or be guided. Of 8,972 attempts made in 2005, the most recent data available, 4,604 reached the summit.
Smiley’s group was led by guides Art Rausch and Andy Kittleson. It set out Sunday, overnighting at about 7,500 feet, below Camp Muir – the most popular route to the top. The next day they stopped at Camp Muir before pushing toward the summit early Tuesday.
The group included retired 1st Lt. Ed Salau of New Bern, N.C., who lost a leg in a 2004 grenade attack in Iraq. Whittaker said Salau had stayed at Camp Muir while the party climbed the peak.
The climb was sponsored by Camp Patriot, a company in Libby, Mont., that provides outdoor recreational experiences for disabled veterans.
Weather, avalanche danger and overall physical health are huge challenges for anybody who climbs Mount Rainier.
For Smiley, the risks are even greater, said Whittaker, noting that throughout the climb, guides had to remain close, with one person in front and behind the soldier.
Whittaker spent about 10 minutes with Smiley’s group Sunday. “I was very impressed. They were moving very well,” he said.
The soldier from Pasco has wanted to climb Rainier since visiting Fort Lewis several years ago as a West Point cadet. He currently lives in Durham, N.C., with wife, Tiffany, and their 8-week-old son and is assigned to headquarters of the Army Accessions Command at Fort Monroe, Va.
“He loves it,” Tiffany Smiley said during an earlier telephone interview with The Associated Press. “It’s just who he is.”
She added that since being blinded, her husband has surfed off the coast of Hawaii, gone skydiving and skied Vail. He also climbed Mount Democrat, a 14,148-foot peak in Colorado.
Smiley was injured in Iraq in April 2005 while serving with the 1st Brigade, 25th Infantry Division – a Stryker combat team formerly based at Fort Lewis.
His unit came upon a suspicious man sitting in a vehicle. When Smiley fired off a couple warning shots, the man raised his hands and the car exploded.
“Everything went black,” said Tiffany Smiley, recalling the attack as her husband had described it.
Shrapnel embedded in his eyes and brain, leaving him temporarily paralyzed and permanently blind. Doctors had to remove one eye. He was eventually fitted with a prosthetic blue eye.
“It was hard,” she said. “It took him awhile to realize what had happened.”
But after receiving a Purple Heart just weeks after his injury, Smiley realized he could still do things he’d done before, including stay in the Army. He learned to walk with a cane, read Braille and traveled the country to speak to other soldiers.
“He is still the same person, he just does things in a different way now,” his wife said.